|
|
Post by indymatt on Mar 23, 2012 20:01:16 GMT -5
i have a 97 p71 that im going to run in a stock show. i cant cut to tilt so my question is should i cold bend it . ill have no protectors but i can run cradle. thanks
|
|
rpmw
Feature Winner
HIT HARD OR GO HOME!
Posts: 109
|
Post by rpmw on Mar 23, 2012 20:04:26 GMT -5
if it is clean you should give it to me lol. i have never tried cold bending, but i have run a few with out tilting and they did pretty good.
|
|
Hoby
Rookie
Posts: 7
|
Post by Hoby on Mar 24, 2012 15:16:56 GMT -5
A cold tilt will help not as well as a welded tilt but still help out somewhat. I will warn you and others that are cold bending for the first time; don't cold bend if the crush boxes are very rusty. I took a nose shot and my frame rail kinked bc of this which caused the passenger wheel to rub the box/firewall  . Guess it was rustier than I previously thought. |
|
Hoby
Rookie
Posts: 7
|
Post by Hoby on Mar 24, 2012 15:32:45 GMT -5
I used heavy machinery to cold bend it. Had a loader with bucket weight down the front frame rails while floor jacks underneath boxes. You could also use garage pods. If you have access to neither then I would go to an abounded railroad track  maybe never tried it. |
|
scared23c
Heat Winner
RUNNING SCARED
Posts: 93
|
Post by scared23c on Mar 24, 2012 21:19:35 GMT -5
idk if this counts as "cold Bending" but i cut just the front tab, took a tractor and pushed it down and inche or 2....failure
|
|
|
|
Post by Fousek49 on Mar 29, 2012 17:15:15 GMT -5
For those that have cold bent and had success with it, where are you bending it? At the boxes or the cross-member?
|
|
|
|
Post by dummy on Mar 29, 2012 23:05:05 GMT -5
do not bend the boxes.
|
|
|
|
Post by Fousek49 on Mar 29, 2012 23:09:52 GMT -5
Did you have bad luck with this? |
|
|
|
Post by 157travi on Mar 30, 2012 22:36:24 GMT -5
i cold bent mine at the cross member and went down 5 inches the first time and 7 inches on the second car no fire wall on either and i thought it did good compared to not doing it
|
|
|
|
Post by mudslinger226 on Mar 31, 2012 8:48:05 GMT -5
I use 2 excavators . One on the trunk and one pushing the front down. Put railroad ties right before or at the crossmember and bend down 3 to 5 inches and call it a day. Really haven't had any bad luck yet. We cannot cut tilt either just cold bend
|
|
|
|
Post by mckinnon45 on Apr 3, 2012 7:13:34 GMT -5
I bent mine at the crossmember. Worked fine for me. Was an early box ford, no gussets, so it eventually shoved back rather than go up...
|
|
|
|
Post by dummy on Apr 3, 2012 21:41:25 GMT -5
Did you have bad luck with this? sorry for the late reply. the last thing we want is the boxes bent. If you bend them while cold bending you already started to weaken them. IMO, I would bend the frame behind the boxes in 3 or 4 spots. |
|
|
|
Post by loco32 on May 1, 2012 23:07:08 GMT -5
If you can cut them were is the best spot. Got a 87 lincon
|
|
|
|
Post by farr66 on May 7, 2012 21:32:32 GMT -5
Just a tip for cold bending, go past where you want it bent. Then reverse the process to bring it back to the final dimension. If you want to know why, Take a scrap piece of flat stock or strapping that you can bend by hand and simulate what you are trying to do to the frame. After each successive bend, it gets harder to bend in the same place. And yes I know that if you keep flexing in the same spot, eventually the metal distresses enough to break. But remember, we are not trying to break it. We just want to take the leverage away from the nose and make the frame straighter. By cold bending, we are doing both. If bent right, the frame will bend in the next weakest spot and so on. Trial and error are the ways to success.
|
|
|
|
Post by jyd3z on May 15, 2012 12:47:47 GMT -5
bolt the body down to the frame except at the firewall and core support... put on a trailer... chain the front and the rear of the frame down and take a floor jack on each side and jack up at the crossmember evenly... very easy
|
|
. Guess it was rustier than I previously thought.
maybe never tried it.
