Abraham Lincoln
Feature Winner
Who needs skills All i need is Logic
Posts: 141
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Post by Abraham Lincoln on Feb 9, 2012 13:54:43 GMT -5
1967-1973 Imperial Tips/Tricks
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Abraham Lincoln
Feature Winner
Who needs skills All i need is Logic
Posts: 141
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Post by Abraham Lincoln on Feb 10, 2012 1:07:11 GMT -5
drive forward and block out reverse ;D got a question about a 72 imp I'm building I have a 318 that I want to put down in how do you guys bolt these in these cars?  I have a truck oil pan which I know I think I have to switch the pan out how do you guys bolt the small blocks in them I wish I had a big block to put in it but I don't so my 318 is going in it. thanks guys talk to dm440c...he had a good explanation if I remember right. I run a sbc, but I believe he said if you have the good spool mounts, leave those on the motor, and you'll have to weld some plate to the mounts from the frame. I'm sure a mopar guy will chime in. right on, the stock mounts for '73 and older are pretty bogus and what I do for these cars is use the 74 & up spool mounts on the engine and weld in new receivers to the frame. I'm still trying to figure out how to migrate all my pictures and diagrams from Shutterfly to Photobucket so I can post them on Proboards, but for now I can give you a couple of pics of what it looks like:   ...I think you get the idea. It's easiest with the sub out in the open, or at least with the front clip removed. Lower the engine/trans down and line up the transmission mount first putting the crossbolt in place. Then see where the engine mounts line up and weld in your angle iron as shown in the pics.... so that you can put the holes in the right spot and insert the engine mount crossbolts. Pull the engine back out and finish welding the receivers to the frame. okay cool thanks dm44c I got it now I have that stuff lol I'll make my own mounts and slap it in thanks again Imp sub swap discussion: Any pictures of the differences in the floors. About to make the happen in a 68 newport this winter. As soon as I get all my parts. No pictures of the floors but I can try to describe.... 74-78 shocker floors are flat underneath and have multiple layers. This makes it easy to blow holes for the rear sub mount anywhere you want and the extra structure of the floor helps hold the new mounts in. Y frame floors have all kinds of contours and they have this whole tab structure that is spot welded to the rockers and is supposed to attach to the rear cross member of either the Y frame sub or the Imp sub. The floors are fairly thin overall with a single layer of sheet steel. Considering the above, I think it is preferable to line up the rear mounts first when putting an Imp sub in a Y frame body. You should still use wide, heavy plate or C channel or kickers or something extra to keep the rear mounts from ripping through the floor. You can still line up at the firewall first but you'll have to torch out all the structure from the tabs that are spot welded to the rockers. Whether you put the sub in a Y frame body or a shocker body you'll have to do some kind of fabricating work for core support mounts since neither core support will line up naturally over any stock mount on the Imp sub. Threaded rod is a no-brainer unless you have rules that do not allow it.... in the latter case you'll have to get inventive. On the debate of lining up first at the rear mounts or first at the firewall mounts, there are plusses and minuses to either strategy. Neither is clearly better than the other and the choice has to be made based on what fits best with your build rules, equipment, engine choice, and to some extent personal preference. I've already given my thoughts on how the two methods work with the choice of Y frame vs. shocker body. Additional considerations include the fact that lining up at the firewall will usually require complete sectioning of the trans tunnel in order to fit the engine in, and this goes extra for a big block. If your rules prevent this and/or if they do not allow a dash bar then I would be very reluctant to go with this method. Also, lining up at the firewall first will require sectioning the whole lower half of the core support since it lines up on top of the beam. Conversely, lining up at the rear mounts first requires a decision to be made about how to do the firewall mounts. The two most popular solutions are to cut the mounts off the sub and re-weld them on further back or to fabricate extensions to the mounts on the body so that they meet the mounts on the sub. My thoughts on this are that the weak link of an Imp sub is the span between the firewall and the control arms, so in my experience creating a longer lever arm here (cutting the mounts and moving them further rearward on the sub) is making the weak link weaker. I've heard from others that say they are happy with the results of this method, I can't speak for what conditions they are dealing with but unless I have some kickers or some kind of direct reinforcement I know it doesn't work for me. One other consideration of lining up the rear mounts first is that the front wheels will sit too far forward in the wheel wells and that the core support will sit too close to the engine. Some individual creativity will be needed to address both of these conditions. goin to put a imp sub in a y framer. could you drill threw the frame in back set of body bolts if you start at firewall and drill new holes for the back to body mounts so you would have 4 body bolts at back of sub? goin to put a imp sub in a y framer. could you drill threw the frame in back set of body bolts if you start at firewall and drill new holes for the back to body mounts so you would have 4 body bolts at back of sub? It should work fine. I welded 1 inch allthread to the back of my sub and torched holes in my floor. Make sure you use some good size washers or pieces of plate..... just got home with sub and now i need to see what i can come up with. Can I get some step by steps on building one of these? I've built lots of gm's but never a mopar. I'm planning on putting a 383 sbc in it. how would one of these hammerheads be if u tipped then? ask the Mopar guru.....i ran against his tipped one a few weeks ago  I tried it for the first time recently, it was a short run and not enough data to be conclusive. Maybe with some more seat time I can decide how effective it is. is there anything specific that needs done to these cars as far as the steering components, like changing the steering box or modifying the steering column.? I have had good luck with the stock boxes. All Mopar steering columns need to be modified. The only steering components I've had trouble with is bent spindles, but I don't think they are weak they're just the first part that gives after getting pounded bad ok, thanks dm440c. 1 other ? what is the spline count for the box and does the solid round piece come off to where it shows the splines like a gm, this is my first lebaron and i don't want to ruin it. not sure on the spline count but, to get the shaft off drive the roll pin out and it will slide off. what type of fitting can i use for the high pressure nipple on the box, i don't have any chrysler power steering pumps or hoses.? can i get one from the parts store? |
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I have a truck oil pan which I know I think I have to switch the pan out how do you guys bolt the small blocks in them I wish I had a big block to put in it but I don't so my 318 is going in it. thanks guys