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Post by derbydummy on Nov 14, 2012 18:25:26 GMT -5
Why do I get the feeling after 12 days after I asked a question that everyone is giving me wierd looks ? Is my zipper down or something ? Maybe I asked a stupid question.. I dont know.  |
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Post by crusher71 on Nov 14, 2012 23:31:58 GMT -5
CALL DAVID, MUCH EASIER TO GET THE ANSWER.... HE FARMS, SO MAY TAKE A FEW DAYS OF TRYING, BUT HE WILL ANSWER...
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Post by mkvien on Nov 17, 2012 23:24:47 GMT -5
I know many do not recommend them, but what are the differences between a 35-spline spool for a 3.250" aftermarket case, and one for a stock bore case in a Ford 9"? I seem to recall they small bore ones were quite an oddity a few years ago, but it looks to me like there are some pretty reputable companies making them now.
I am still trying to get my head, and my pocketbook, around upgrading to 35-spline axles, but I already have an aftermarket case in the stock bore size and would rather not spend the money on a whole new case as well.
Either that or I go to 33-spline (which seems like a half measure), because the 31-spline ones didn't cut it.
I haven't messed with my Moser rear end for a while as I was able to run floater rears at most of my shows, but it looks like the first show of the summer next year I better get it back up and running.
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Post by David Bryan on Nov 26, 2012 10:14:06 GMT -5
Hello. Sorry for the delay. derbydummy; A wheel bearing, or a bronze bushing, will not prevent an axle shaft from bending. Even if the bushing could be, pick a number, six inchs wide, this would not prevent the shaft from bending. It could help, to a point. I had thoughts of this years ago, but cost became the problem. If one could support the axle shaft every few inchs to the full spool, it would help to keep a shaft from bending. But, again, cost, and practicality became the issue. Not to mention, lubrication of the axle shaft. If one could, would do this, ALL force would be on the hub.
An HD retainer plate will prevent an axle shaft (with broken wheel bearing) from "walking" out of the housing. Bronze, will not break.
mkvien; upgrades. Here are my thoughts: Do the math. You will need new axle shafts, AND a new full spool. Moser now makes the Hobby Stock axle in 40 spline. All spline axle shafts are the same price. All full spools are the same price. So, no matter what spline, and what full spool, cost is the same. The only addition to go bigger, is the cost of the HD case, and set up kit. Speedway Motors case is good and list price is $205.00 (#910-483392). Yukon case is nearly the same as the Moser HD case. Both have bigger main cap bolts than the Speedway case. These (Yukon), can be had at a great price from Quick Performance. (Iowa). The Strange case is fine, but Yukon is better.
I would never put a 35 spline full spool in a 3.062" case. Just as I would never put a 35 spline spool in a GM 10 bolt. Never. Not IF it will break, but WHEN it will break.
Go 40 spline Moser Hobby stock. Go HD 3.25" case, Go 40 spline full spool. NO spline breakage, good re-sale down the road. You have now an HD case and (possibly one?) axle shaft to sell. These parts are worth money. Worth MORE than the cost of the HD case and set-up. Do the math. David Bryan
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Post by drivingbigtoys on Dec 17, 2012 19:51:09 GMT -5
David u get my email?
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Post by David Bryan on Dec 18, 2012 9:26:42 GMT -5
Hello driving big toys. Yes, and did respond. Yes, Moser will have a price increase after the first of the year. They always have. How much? is hard to tell. This increase will not happen until around February though. I can guess the price of a "loaded" pair of Moser axles shafts may increase by $25.00. Time will tell. Bronze will increase in small amounts during the year. Bronze increased in price all though last year. I held the price the same as it was a small amount. This bronze increase will be part of the axle shaft price increase. I know wheel studs had a big jump in price a year ago. Wheel lug nuts were the same. Time will tell. So, when I know the increase, you all will know the increase.
Merry Christmas. David Bryan
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Post by drivingbigtoys on Dec 18, 2012 15:56:45 GMT -5
Thanks.....also what's the difference from a regular hub and a deep hub in our application?
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Post by bluecrew72 on Dec 20, 2012 15:35:27 GMT -5
David,
I recently bought a set of coil to leaf conversion brackets from Ryan Kopf in Fond du Lac, WI he said they were from you never used, haven't seen them yet but any tips to the install? Going on 10 bolt looking to use for old iron sedans (coil) and roundback, rear end has a back brace and bottom brace from Andy Hanson
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Post by crusher71 on Dec 22, 2012 0:54:51 GMT -5
Thanks.....also what's the difference from a regular hub and a deep hub in our application? MORE CENTER OF WHEEL SUPPORT....SORT OF..... |
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Post by drivingbigtoys on Dec 22, 2012 6:05:07 GMT -5
Thanks.....also what's the difference from a regular hub and a deep hub in our application? MORE CENTER OF WHEEL SUPPORT....SORT OF..... Thanks crusher...is the bearing wider or is it just placed in a different location on the axle? |
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Post by David Bryan on Dec 22, 2012 18:58:01 GMT -5
Hello. bluecrew72. IF they are from me, you need to have them welded on with 39.75" between the brackets. Rotate the pinion up about five degrees. If you want, I can mail you a set of instructions. Simply E-mail me your address. The stamp is on me.
drivingbig toys; regular hub is a factory hub on a (Ford, Mopar, or GM) housing. This means it will accept a factory wheel bearing. The deep bore housing end is that, deep bore. It will accept an after-market wheel bearing (usually the Timken 45mm wheel bearing, however, will also accept the double row ball bearing). Either style housing end will also accept bronze, made for that housing end. Off-set for the brakes is another topic. All for now. David Bryan
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Post by drivingbigtoys on Dec 22, 2012 19:32:39 GMT -5
So for a Derby application with your bronze bushings which would I be better off with? Or does it really matter? I will also be making my own axle savers if that matters...
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Post by bluecrew72 on Dec 22, 2012 20:08:59 GMT -5
David, I picked them up today and he just happened to have the directions that came with them!! Sweet product thanks for the help, I'm assuming that instead of any sort of u bolt you just have e spring pack between the plate welded on the rear and the flat plate with the holes indicated by the instructions? Also I'm assuming that all the holes drilled through the center is just for different placements of the spring pack center bolt if you want to move the rear forward or back?
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Post by David Bryan on Dec 24, 2012 14:22:21 GMT -5
Hello. drivingbigtoys, after-market housing ends are bigger, probably better. In another way, there is more steel in the aftermarket housing end, thicker at every point. The matter of the bronze thicker actually, does not matter. Bronze is very durable. The deep bore with the bigger Timken bearing is, by far, a better wheel bearing than factory types.
bluecrew72, you are correct, no "U" bolts. Simply use bolts with nuts. 1/2", grade 8, is what we use. The thicker your leaf pack, the longer the bolts you will need.
And yes, the center holes are for the leaf pack bolt. There are holes in the weld on base and matching holes in the lower plate. You can use a 3/8" bolt for your leaf packs, but will need to "round" the hex corners to fit the holes. IF you use the "factory" style 5/16" allen head bolts, no grinding is needed.
Merry Christmas to all. David Bryan
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Post by crusher71 on Dec 24, 2012 16:23:35 GMT -5
MY JUNIOR HIGH SCIENCE TEACHER WAS A BIG BORE. I KEPT FALLING ALSEEP.... AND HE DROVE A JEEP, ANY RELATION? IT HAD AN AMC 20 REAR UNDER IT.....  |
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