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Post by chevyman422 on Feb 29, 2012 22:31:57 GMT -5
i guess ill start it off...  |
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Post by frey02 on Mar 1, 2012 20:23:21 GMT -5
Sweet michigan will b down
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Post by chevyman422 on Mar 2, 2012 10:39:29 GMT -5
The whole state? Lol
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Post by chevyman422 on Mar 3, 2012 16:20:31 GMT -5
2012 DEMOLITION DERBY RULES
** READ ALL OF THESE RULES, THERE HAVE BEEN MANY CHANGES!!! **
GENERAL / COMPETITION / SAFETY RULES:
A. You must wear a safety belt and a Z-90 full face helmet including chin guard. (Snell 95 or
newer)
B. Full Fire suit, gloves and racing shoes are highly recommended!! Leather shoes/boots, long
sleeve shirts and pants are required!
C. Goggles or face shields required no exceptions.
D. Vehicles must have working brakes at all times.
E. All boundaries must be observed.
F. NO DRINKING of alcoholic beverages in the pits or by anyone having a pit pass. Anyone found
under the influence of alcohol or drugs will be DQ’d. Drivers are responsible for the crews and
friends/family.
G. Cars are not permitted in the competition area before the heat in which they are in.
H. A vehicle will be DQ’d if the driver’s door comes open.
I. ONE MINUTE TIME LIMIT IS ENFORCED FOR RE-STARTS AND MAKING COMPETITIVE
CONTACT WITH ANOTHER CAR. HITS MUST BE AGGRESSIVE. Simple contact within the
time limit does not constitute combat and will be considered sandbagging.
J. All cars should be removed from the track 1 hour following the show or from 9-5pm the
following day. We will go out of our way to make arrangements for you to get your car, however
any car left after one week will become the property of SBMS.
K. All competitors must stay in their derby area, until told to move!
L. Must have a fire extinguisher within reach of the driver. Min. size 2.5lbs.
M. All cars must pass tech inspections one (1) hour before the show!!!!
N. You must be able to prove ownership of your vehicle to law enforcement authorities if
requested. Cars left behind must forfeit title to management.
O. A time limit may be imposed on all events.
P. There will be a set of torches used to inspect frames at the end of the event. Just because you
passed tech at the start of the day does not mean you are legal. The initial tech inspection is for
obvious infractions and safety issues. It is the decision of the officials to determine what areas of
the car, body, or frame they will cut apart. It may not be the same spot after each show.
Q. Drivers must remain in the vehicle with helmet, seatbelt and eye protection on until notified by
an official that it is safe to exit the vehicle.
R. Driver’s door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or intentional, you
will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rules. If you
use the door defense repeatedly you will be disqualified.
S. You are allowed one fire; second fire will be cause for disqualification.
2012 DEMOLITION DERBY RULES (page 2)
CAR BUILDING / PREPARATION RULES:
CAR: Any 80’s or newer car – Sedan or Wagon. No Imperials, vans, trucks, convertibles, Jeeps,
hearses, limo’s, “sedagons”, “wedge cars”, or 4 wheel drive vehicles.
No junk, tires, wheels, etc. in the car. Head lights, tail lights, marker lights, chrome molding strips
& bottom portion of rear seats must be removed from car. Rolling down windows is not permitted.
Removal of windshield is optional, safety straps must be installed from roof to cowl. All debris and
glass must be removed from car before getting to the speedway. This means you should vacuum
your car out prior to reaching the speedway!!
BUMPERS: Bumpers are interchangeable. You may weld the bumper brackets to the frame or
weld the bumper directly to the frame. Weld for the bumpers can NOT go further back than the
front of the core support. You may weld the outer skin to the inner bumper skin (All officials
MUST be able to see inside the bumper to make sure it is not loaded!). You may not weld the
bumper to the body at any time. Bumpers may be cut, but must be flat, No points to cut tires. All
bumper brackets and shock components must be OEM automotive materials. You can NOT add
any material to your bumper. Bumper height must be a minimum of 15” and a maximum of 22”
on fresh cars to the bottom of the bumper. Pre-run cars may be up to a maximum 30” high
(Officials decision is final on the height and safety of the bumper on the pre-run cars). You can
use 4 loops of #9 wire in 4 different spots on the front and rear bumper. Wire must go from the
bumper to sheet metal only (not thru the hood or trunk).
BODY: Body creasing/enhancing of existing body lines and addition of body lines is allowed to
the sides of the car only. Do not fold the metal over to create a doubled effect; any spot with 4
layers of sheet metal will be torched out completely. Trunk lid seams must be clearly visible and
accessible. No doubling of any body panels allowed, no added metal allowed. Rusted out holes
in your floor may be patched with sheet metal where components will be mounted or for drivers
safety, sheet metal only. No other sheet metal patching is allowed unless it is a safety issue. You
may not patch clean and solid floors. Holes may be cut in the floor & firewall to accommodate the
shifter, fuel lines, and transmission lines. NO bolting fenders together.
HOOD & TRUNK: BOTH hood and trunk must be open for inspection. Hood must have a 12”
hole cut for fire/safety. You may push the trunk lid inside the trunk AFTER inspection, but DO
NOT fold the fenders over (they MUST stay straight up). You may weld a MAXIMUM 5” washer
to the hood, trunk, and fenders for wire to go thru (4 on the hood, 4 on the trunk, and 2 on each
fender max). You can ONLY have 4 spots wired with 2 strands of # 9 wire per spot on the hood
and the same on the trunk; NO bolts, all thread, or anything else may be used (except #9 wire).
Wire MUST be sheet metal to sheet metal (DO NOT go around the frame). If running a wagon,
you must secure the tail gate the same as a trunk or take it off.
DOORS: Doors seems may be welded on the outside only. Instead of welding you may use;
wire, straps, or chains.
NUMBERS: Numbers must be of a contrasting color from the car and visible on both driver and
passenger door. ALL VEHICLES MUST have a number roof sign, minimum 15”x15” and
MAXIMUM 24”x24” and must be in contrasting color to read the number. These may not be
positioned in any way to strengthen the car. OFFICIALS DECISION IS FINAL!!!
WINDOW: You must have a piece of rebar, all thread, chain, #9 wire, or a bar running from the
roof to the cowl in the windshield area for drivers protection, up to 3 pieces max. This may not be
designed as reinforcement to the car. This can NOT touch the distributor protector.
2012 DEMOLITION DERBY RULES (page 3)
FRAME: Must be OEM. Rubber body mounts can be replaced with no larger than 1” bolt and 3”
diameter washer (free floating). If you remove the body mounts, a minimum 3/4” spacer (free
floating) must replace that mount (NO bolting the body solid to the frame). Do NOT weld the
washers or spacers for the body mount to the frame. NO patch’s on rusty spots. No welding of
any seams or crush holes on the frame. No plating, stuffing, heat treating or foam filling of frames
is allowed. NO bolts in holes on the frame, unless they are holding a needed/usable part! Do
NOT paint or undercoat your frame. You may weld your motor mounts to the engine cradle, not
to the frame rails. You may notch the frame for minimal pre-bending, but do NOT weld the cut.
Frame shaping will be allowed. Tipping of the frame is allowed, only where the frame flap meets
the outside of frame, in front of the box. No other metal or gussets can be added. DO NOT
WELD OR RE-WELD ANY OF THE CRUSH BOX SEAMS!!!!! (If ANY official
believes you have welded these crush box seams, you WILL cut them.)
Any 2003 / Newer (Ford, Lincoln, Mercury - Ford Motor Co. products) - MUST run stock
engine/suspension cradle. Also, you MUST run the stock rack and pinion steering!
FRAME on GM’s ONLY!!!: (Chevy, Olds, Pontiac, Buick, Cadillac) You may weld a plate
on the rear humps only as described here, if you do anything other than this and you will NOT run
(see explanation and drawing)!
You may weld a 1/8” thick x 10” long x 4” tall piece of flat steel on each rear hump. It MUST be
on the outside of the frame and be positioned and welded ONLY as described. All of it must be
on the hump, no overhang above or below. You may weld both 4” ends and you may have ONE
6” stitch weld across the top and bottom of the plate in the center. If you have any questions
about this please ask! This is ONLY LEGAL ON GM’s!!!
Suspension/Steering: 2003/newer Fords (or any vehicle that comes from the factory with)
MUST use the rack and pinion steering!!! No leafing a coil car. Leaf cars can have no more than
5 leafs, including the helper. Coil springs may be changed (you may run spring spacers/knuckle
busters), but they CAN NOT be mounted in the springs to reinforce the car or suspension in any
way. Rear springs may be either #9 wired, tack welded, or hose clamped in place ONLY. You
can NOT replace shocks with tubes or any other foreign material. Tie rods must be stock; you
can weld the sleeve to the tie rod. Aftermarket steering columns/wheels are allowed. No truck
shocks, no exotic shocks, no mystery shocks, no over sized shocks. Air shock lines must be cut.
Shock absorbers must be factory replacement for that year, make and model of car. Do not run
chains, cables, or wire around the spindles. Trailing arms can NOT be reinforced. ALL
suspension (while hooked up) must have movement (with 250lbs of pressure).
Watts-link conversion for Fords. You may convert a Watts-Link to a standard 4 link system
in the following way: Use the upper and lower trailing arm brackets off an older Ford. After
market brackets are allowed, but no thicker than 1/4 inch and may be attached with max of
3 – 1/2“ bolts each side. No shortening of trailer arms, no positioning of brackets to
strengthen the front down legs of the rear hump, must be mount in the stock location.
2012 DEMOLITION DERBY RULES (page 4)
TIRES & BRAKES: Any tire NO taller than 30”, they CAN NOT be solid or foam filled (MUST
hold air). Double tires will be allowed. Your wheel can have valve stem protectors, and variable
center holes. 8” MAXIMUM wheel. Remove all wheel weights. Wheels may have a maximum of
a 1/4" plate on the back side in the center only where the studs come thru. Your car MUST be
able to stop; we reserve the right to test your brakes to make sure they work properly. Brakes
must be on all 4 wheels, NO PINION BRAKES!
Radiator & Supports: Radiator must be in the stock position in front of the motor or taken off.
Radiator supports must remain in the stock location. OEM style radiators only, no home made
tube construction radiators. No spray foam around the radiator. Fenders can be welded to the
top of the core support only. You may run a “radibarrell” but it can only be bolted (in 4 places) to
the core support (NOT welded). You may have 1 piece of 1/4” thick mesh wire in front and
behind the radiator. You may have a MAX 10” tall (3” x 3” MAX square) spacer between the
bottom of the core support and the frame where the mounts go. This spacer is just like a body
mount and MUST be free floating! You may run all thread thru the bottom of the core support to
mount it to the car, but it can be NO higher than 6” above the bottom of the core support.
ENGINES: Any engine may be used in any car. You may chain in your motor, 1 Chain per side,
1/2” max. Chains may not be higher than the top of the stock engine. Distributor/carburetor
protectors are allowed, BUT must be attached to engine or transmission only, back side of DP
MUST be no wider than 12”, and ALL protectors can NOT make contact to anything other than
the engine, in pre-tech. It may not be welded, bolted or connected to body, hood or frame.
Aftermarket Distributor/carburetor protectors, cradles and pulley protectors are allowed. These
must be separate items and may not all be connected for a complete engine protector system.
NO “extreme” or full/1 piece engine systems.
SKID PLATES: Skid plates are allowed. They must be separate plated for the engine and the
transmission. NO full-length skid plates. NO bolting or welding the skid plated to the frame.
Transmissions: Transmissions must be of passenger car origin. Transmission coolers may be
used, but they must be secured in such a way to prevent injury. Coolers may be secured in a
safe container on the passenger compartment floor or must stay in the engine compartment area.
Transmission cross member, may be moved back a MAXIMUM of 8” from the stock location. You
may ONLY USE a MAXIMUM of 1/4” (thick) x 6”” (long) x 3” (wide) piece of angle, welded to the
side of the frame ONLY, for your brackets. Cross member must be welded or bolted to the
brackets (NOT to the frame). The cross member MUST be an OEM (Ford, GM, Chrysler – your
choice). NO HOME MADE CROSS MEMBERS!!! Cross member may be wired to the cage.
REAR ENDS: Rear ends must be of a passenger car origin, 5 lugs maximum. No truck, 8 lugs,
or floater rear ends. You may tilt the rear end by moving and rewelding the trailing arm mounts on
the rear end ONLY. NO REAR END BRACES OF ANY KIND! You may weld the rear end tubes
to the housing. NO chains or wire is allowed around the rear end. NO double axle tubes.
FUEL SYSTEM: Original gas tank must be removed from the car and replaced with a marine
tank, metal fuel tank, or plastic tank (if plastic tank you must enclose it in sheet metal). 10 gallon
tank maximum. You must have the gas tank securely mounted behind the front seat and in front
of the rear end, also it must be covered. Fuel lines running thru the car must be enclosed in some
type of safety shield. Electric fuel pumps are allowed. They must be covered and have an on/off
switch near the steering wheel and clearly marked in large letters. A gas tank protector is
allowed, 24”x6” maximum, centered in the back seat area. There must be a 1” space between the
tank protector and all sheet metal, may not be attached to anything other than back seat bar (see
cage rules).
2012 DEMOLITION DERBY RULES (page 5)
BATTERY: 2 – 12 Volt batteries maximum, they both must be safely secured either in the
passenger seat or in front of the passenger seat only and MUST be covered.
CAGE: Safety bars are allowed and should include padding on the driver’s side. All VERTICAL,
DASH, and ROLL OVER bars can ONLY be a MAX of 3” round or 3”x3” square. DOOR and
SEAT bars can be a MAX of 4” round or 4”x6” square. You are allowed 4 VERTICAL bars and
they may be welded to the frame, BUT can NOT be used to hide a body mount, the front 2 can be
no further forward than the firewall in the STOCK location, the rear 2 can be no further back than
6” behind the front seats in the STOCK location. The seat bar can be NO more than 6” behind
the seat; seat must be straight up and in the stock location. A roll over bar is allowed behind the
driver only (roll over bar may extend above the roof of the car, but must be at a 90 degree angle
from the door bars – do not angle forward or back!). The roll over bar CAN NOT be connected to
the roof (it can touch the roof). Dash bar MUST go over the steering column. NO front or rear
kicks. A gas tank protector is allowed, 24”x6” inches, centered in the back seat area. There must
be a 1” space between the back tank bar and all sheet metal, may not be attached to anything
other than back seat bar. All HORIZONTAL cage bars must be a MINIMUM of 6” off the floor of
the car, including the gas tank protector (measured at the body bolt elevation). You are allowed
to have 2 door bars (on each side), 2 seat bars (both must be horizontal), 1 dash bar, 4 vertical
bars, and 1 roll over bar. All cage components must be in the interior of the car, not inside the
door structure, with the exception of the roll over bar ONLY. Safety bars are NOT allowed to be
welded to ANY body panels, unless you are running a cage with no vertical down bars.
** OFFICIALS DECISION IS FINAL ON CONSTRUCTION AND SAFETY! **
OTHER: Officials decision is final!!! Cars will be impounded after each heat. All competitors will
be given the same amount of time to prepare their car for the feature. These are the rules;
nothing more can to be done to the car. IF YOU QUESTION ANYTHING ON YOUR CAR
EMAIL STEVE@RACESOUTHBENDMOTORSPEEDWAY.COM TO GET IT CLARIFIED!!!
These are not suggestions. This is what is allowed as far as
preparation of the car. Please do not try to read anything more
into these rules. “THIS IS WHAT YOU ARE ALLOWED TO DO TO
BUILD YOUR CAR.”
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Post by chevyman422 on Mar 3, 2012 16:24:22 GMT -5
they will also be having mini truck and van derby, roll over contest, trailer race and enduro
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Post by torch16t on Mar 3, 2012 17:53:11 GMT -5
;D ;D ;D
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Post by DerbyMaMa on Mar 4, 2012 7:48:07 GMT -5
this thread has been linked to the 2012 IN state schedule thread
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Post by dirtworker on Mar 4, 2012 10:48:29 GMT -5
This place is a joke! Don't waste your time!
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Post by torch16t on Mar 4, 2012 17:01:00 GMT -5
Here we go.....
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Post by frey02 on Mar 4, 2012 19:45:56 GMT -5
whats pay out ?
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Post by chevyman422 on Mar 4, 2012 20:44:55 GMT -5
nobody knows yet frey. im just starting the thread cuz im ready to talk about it... lol
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Post by chevyman422 on Mar 4, 2012 20:48:22 GMT -5
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Post by jfaucett on Mar 5, 2012 11:59:02 GMT -5
Wow even 80's Imperials are outlawed! 2012 DEMOLITION DERBY RULES (page 2) CAR BUILDING / PREPARATION RULES: CAR: Any 80’s or newer car – Sedan or Wagon. No Imperials, vans, trucks, convertibles, Jeeps, hearses, limo’s, “sedagons”, “wedge cars”, or 4 wheel drive vehicles.  jdf |
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Post by 607ballzbe on Mar 5, 2012 20:17:11 GMT -5
John you could take an 80's ugly azz Imperial there and they would let it go until ya won... Lol 80's Imperials are the same unibody platform as the Cordoba pretty much but because it says "IMPERIAL" LET'S OUTLAW IT... Lol
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Post by chevyman422 on Mar 6, 2012 9:34:41 GMT -5
^bout time you showed up... we didnt miss you at all ballzbe.. lol
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