.Remember we are only taking the first paid cash or money order entries for the open class. Visit
www.Hollywoodmotorsportsentertainment.com for entry forms.
SPIRIT OF THE HOLLYWOOD RULE
Although every effort has been directed toward complete, understandable and correct rules showing in print, Hollywood Motorsports cannot possibly anticipate every situation, circumstance or interpretation. With this in mind we must refer to the spirit of the rule.
Any rules questions can be answered by Rick Harrington at 920-410-2008.
DRIVE FOR FIVE OFFICIAL 2012 CAR BUILDING RULES
GENERAL PREPARATION:
All glass, plastic and pot metal must be removed. Nothing may remain in the bottoms of the trunk or doors. All outer hardware must be removed, door handles, mirrors, chrome, moldings, screws, fiberglass, etc. No added weight to any car. Rear seats in all cars and all decking in station wagons must be removed. Front seats must be securely bolted to the floor. These bolts may NOT go thru the frame! You must have a functioning seat belt. All flammable materials must be removed from the car other than safety padding and the driver’s seat. No sedagons or wedge cars are allowed. All cars must be mass produced. No 1973 and older imperials or any year hearse or ambulance.
CAGES & DOOR BARS:
You may use channel or tubing up to 6" for the door bars. Total length is not to exceed 60". This bar may not be more than 18" behind the center post on 4 door cars and 10" behind the door seam on 2 door cars. NO exceptions.
Dash bar and seat bars may not exceed 6" diameter. Seat bars must be no further than 6" behind the seat. All bars must be straight pieces no contoured pieces.2013 DASH BAR MUST BE 6 INCHES ABOVE TRANSMISSION TUNNEL AND 8 INCHES FROM MOTOR
80’s cars and any uni-body (No Imps) are allowed a gas tank protector, 24 inch, centered in the back seat area. There must be a 1/2” space between the back bar and all sheet metal and protector may not be attached to anything other than back seat bar. All interior sheet metal must remain in stock position. Do not pound! THESE ARE THE ONLY CARS THAT MAY HAVE A GAS TANK PROTECTOR.
You may add 4 VERTICAL down bars, welded to the floor sheet metal.DO NOT DROP ANY DOWN LEGS INTO BODY.[CUTTING HOLES] These bars may not attach to the frame or conceal a body mount. No kickers, angled or otherwise. DO NOT weld down bars to front body plate where the firewall bolts come through. NO cage components may be welded to the frame. All horizontal cage components must be at least 8" off of the floor of the car, measured to the bottom of the bar. Including gas tank protector, to specific cars described above. All cage components must be in the interior of the car, not inside the door structure with the exception of the driver’s side. This door bar MAY be inside the door structure to allow more room for driver’s safety. IF YOUR CAGE BARS, DOWN LEGS, ETC ARE TO CLOSE TO THE MOTOR,HEADS,TRANS,ETC WE WILL ASK YOU TO MOVE THEM BEFORE THE DERBY STARTS TO AVOID HAVING ANY PROBLEMS AFTER THE DERBY.
HALO OR ROLLOVER BARS:
You may add a halo bar to the cage components listed above. It may not exceed 6" in diameter. On a 4-door post car, this bar must attach to the seat bar, no exceptions. On a 2-door or 4-door non-post car, this bar may be attached to the floor sheet metal. Halo bars must be in a direct vertical line with the seat bar. Halo bars may NOT be angled toward the rear of the car. They must be vertical. You may bolt the halo bar to the roof sheet metal in 2 places.
TRUNK LIDS/TAILGATES:
Trunk lids and tailgates must remain 50% in the stock location. The trunk lid must remain on hinges. You may fasten your trunk lid in only ONE OF THE FOLLOWING ways: bolt two pieces of angle to trunk and fender or trunk with one bolt, 4 bolts (2 sheet metal to sheet metal and 2 to the frame, which may be welded VERTICALLY to the frame). Wire in 4 places, with 2 strands of wire per location. Chain in 4 places (3/8 max size). If you use chain or wire you may weld up to 5” OD washers to the trunk lid. 2013 new rule Mopars may weld 2 3inch by 5 inch flat stock per trunk seam if you choose to do this you may only run 2 ¾ threaded rods to frame . trunk and tailgate rod size not to exceed ¾ inch. TRUNKS NEED A 15X15 HOLE TO INSPECT IN 2013.
Quarters must remain stock. A 5 inch maximum dish along with the speaker deck. We will lay a 2x4 (straight edge) behind the pillar and measure in the middle for your 5 inches. Do not lower quarters to increase dish. Wagon tailgates may be wired, bolted, or chained in one spot per side do not pass threaded rod through the whole car. You may weld one 5” angle iron per side and pass one bolt through it.
HOODS:
Hoods may be bolted, wired or chained shut ONLY. You may use 6 bolts for the hood, 3/4" max, two of the ¾ threaded rod may pass through the front most body mount holes through the hood and the other 4 bolts sheet metal to sheet metal. NO PIPE OR OTHER MATERIAL IN THE TREADED ROD, ONLY THE THREADED ROD. DO NOT WELD TO FRAME JUST THROUGH THE BODY MOUNT HOLE. 80’s Fords may weld 1 inch of the rod to the frame after it passes through the body mount hole. If you use chain or wire, you may weld up to 5" OD washers to the hood. If bolting, the 5" washers must be free floating. IF USING CHAIN/WIRE ONLY 2 CHAINS OR WIRES MAY GO AROUND FRAME.
You may install up to 12 - 3/8" bolts or self tapping screws per hood cutout. Maximum of 3 cut outs. Maximum washer size is 1" outside diameter. Cutouts may be for header clearance, air breather clearance or radiator fill opening only. These bolts must be installed within 2” of the cutout.
DOORS:
Doors may be welded 5” on, 5” off, outside seams only, 2" x 1/8" strap maximum. Driver’s door can be welded solid, outside seams only. You may wire or chain your doors shut in 2 places per door seam, do not go around frame. Driver’s door may have window netting for driver’s safety. NO other windows may have netting. You may weld a plate max size of 8" x 1/4" across the driver’s door for protection, not to extend 6" beyond the front door seams. NO GRADER BLADES. These plates must be in the center of the door, run horizontally. No seam welding other then the driver’s door. Top of doors may be welded.
WINDOWS:
You must run one 3” inch wide ¼ thick strap or chain (3/8” max) or wire from roof to fire wall for safety in windshield area. This is for driver safety only, not to strengthen the car. No straps through back window. Driver’s door window net allowed.
BODY WORK:
YOU MAY BODY CREASE BEHIND THE BACK DOOR ONLY. Body creasing, enhancing of existing body lines and addition of body lines is allowed behind the back door only. DO NOT CREASE DOORS OR FRONT FENDERS. You can fold the top of the doors over, and weld them 5 on 5 off. If you crease front doors or fenders, torching them will be your option. Trunk lid seams must be clearly visible and accessible.
No doubling of body panels allowed, no added metal allowed. Quarter panels must remain vertical. Tail light valances must remain vertical. Rusted out holes in your floor sheet metal may be patched where components will be mounted or for drivers safety, sheet metal only. No other sheet metal patching is allowed. Thickness of sheet metal used to patch floor must be the same thickness or less than the factory floor thickness. Leave old rusted metal in place, do not cut it out, max overlap of 2”. You may NOT patch solid floors. Core support seam welding is NOT allowed. Holes may be cut in the floor & firewall to accommodate the shifter, fuel lines, and transmission lines. You may cut a hole in the firewall to accommodate the engine, within reason. You may have up to five 3/8" bolts in each wheel opening. They may not be higher than 5" above the stock lip location of the wheel opening. The washers used must have a max OD of 1”.
The firewall/cowl may be beaten flat on the engine side only, do not weld or bolt firewall/cowl. Do not re-enforce the firewall/cowl. Do not beat, paint, bolt, weld on, weld to or modify the driver’s side of the firewall/cowl in any way
ENGINES:
Any engine may be used in any car, but it must be mounted within 5" of the original motor. Motor mounts may be welded in place but may not reinforce the car in anyway. You may chain the motor down but chain must run vertically, not at an angle. This chain can only attach to the engine cross member and cannot attach to the frame rails. One chain per side, 3/8” max. No engine oil coolers are allowed.
DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTORS/CRADLES:
NO DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTORS ALLOWED. Engine cradles and pulley protectors are allowed. These must be separate items and may not be connected for a complete engine protector system.
TRANSMISSIONS:
Transmissions must be of passenger car origin. Transmission coolers may be used, but they must be safely secured in such a way to prevent injury. Metal or braided cooler lines must be used. No fuel or low-pressure lines may be used. Coolers must be secured in a container in the passenger compartment of the car. Transmission braces are allowed. IF WE FEEL YOUR TRANSMISSION BRACE IS STRENTHING UP YOUR CAR YOU WILL BE ASKED TO SLIT THE BELL HOUSING SHEET METAL. Transmission bracing is only allowed to strengthen the housing of the transmission not act as a kicker and strengthen the car. IF you run a Nerat bell or a transmission protector you will run your tail shaft and trans free floating off your trans cross member ,nothing may cannot stop the trans from pushing back , STOCK cross members do not stuff concrete or steel inside.
If you feel that your transmission is going to move to much you may add TWO pieces of 9 gage wire only. THIS RULE WILL BE CLOSELY MONITORED.
SKID PLATES:
Skid plates are allowed. They must be separate plates for the engine and the transmission. NO full-length skid plates. NO bolting or welding the skid plated to the frame.
REAR ENDS:
Rear ends must be of a passenger car origin, 5 lugs maximum. Any type of rear end (Ford / Mopar / GM / Hybrid) may be used in any make. No truck, 8 lugs, or floater rear ends. Tilting the rear end by lengthening or shortening the trailing arms is allowed. Trailing arms must be of passenger car origin and must operate. Trailing arms may be reinforced but must be OEM original. Rear end braces are allowed, but they may serve no purpose other than to strengthen the rear end housing. They may not extend from the rear end further than 6” and may not be higher than the top of the housing. REAR ENDS MAY BE CHAINED IN WITH ONE 3/8” MAX CHAIN PER SIDE. MOPARS MAY BOLT CHAIN THROUGH BODY FRAME OVER THE AXLE ALL CARS THAT HAVE SEPARATE FRAME MUST GO THROUGH BODY.
Watts-link conversion for newer Fords:
You may convert a Watts-Link to a standard 4 link system in the following way: Use the upper & lower trailing arm brackets off an older Ford. After market brackets are allowed, but no thicker than ¼ inch and may be attached with max of three 1/2" bolts on each side OR four one inch welds per bracket. Do not position the brackets to strengthen the front down legs of the rear hump. The brackets must mount in the stock location and be the stock size. Do not weld in package tray from another car, after market brackets only.
FRONT SUSPENSION & STEERING:
Steering columns may be replaced with aftermarket columns with added u-joints. Tie rods may be reinforced, but OEM stock tie rod ends must be used. No circle track or aftermarket tie rod ends allowed. A-Arms can be chained or bolted down, or welded down with only one 1” strap NEW IN 2013 IF YOU CHOOSE TO DO THIS STRAP MUST BE WELDED IN THE MIDDLE OF A ARM [THIS MEANS CENTER OF SPRING BUCKET] were the rubber pad under the a arm is located. Do not reinforce in any way. Ball joints must be stock. Spring spacers allowed.
BODY BOLTS:
All body bolts may be replaced with up to 5/8" bolts, maximum 8" length. Core support bolts may be 3/4" diameter. The two core support bolts may go thru the hood and count as 2 of the 6 hood bolts. Washers must be free floating inside the car and inside the frame on the bottom side. Do NOT weld the body washers to the floor. Maximum washer size is 5" x 1/4" thick. Minimum space of ¾” must be maintained between the body and the frame. Do not bolt the body directly to the frame. If you decide to bolt your coil springs in place thru the frame and the rear package tray you must cut sheet metal around it. All body mounts (including the front two) must remain in the factory stock location.
RADIATOR:
Radiator must be in the stock position in front of the motor. Radiator supports must remain in the stock location. OEM or aftermarket comparable style radiators only, no homemade tube construction radiators, tanks or radi-barrels allowed. No added cooling capacity or supplemental cooling devices allowed. A piece of 1/8” mesh material over the radiator and the factory A/C condenser are the only items which can be in front of the radiator or core support.
FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEMS:
Original gas tanks must be removed. No plastic gas tanks allowed. Marine style or metal fuel tanks only. Ten gallon is the max tank size. No creative tanks which reinforce the car are allowed. The gas tank must be securely mounted behind the driver’s seat and it must be covered. All fuel lines must run inside the car, not under the car along the frame. Automotive pump gas only, NO ALCOHOL. Electric fuel pumps are allowed but they must be covered and have an on/off switch near the steering wheel and clearly marked in large letters. All lines must be double clamped. Only fuel rated line allowed.
TIRES & BRAKES:
No split rims, studded tires, wheel weights solid rims allowed. Aftermarket center with various hole patterns, up to 8 inch max diameter will be allowed. Valve stem protectors allowed, doubled or foam filled tires are OK - we don’t like flats! You may not change tires after inspection; ride height will be measured with your competition tires only. All cars must be able to demonstrate the ability to stop at any time. If your brakes do not work, you will not compete.
BATTERIES:
A maximum of two 12 volt batteries may be used. They must be secured inside the car in front of the passenger seat and covered.
FRAMES:
. No frame seam welding or repairs allowed. No plating, stuffing, heat treating or foam filling of frames is allowed. Do NOT paint or undercoat your frame or you will not even be inspected. No rust repair allowed. The only welding allowed is bumper brackets, motor mounts, rear threaded rod for sedan trunks, and transmission cross members. Automotive cross members only. Cold bending only is allowed. If you bend the frame do not weld the cross member or angle iron support over the bend. The bend must be in front of or behind the cross member mount. On the 80s cars do not cut the boxes and tilt them down and re-weld. Rear frame rails may not be shortened. No dowel pinning of the frame is allowed. You may notch the frame for minimal pre-bending, but do NOT weld the cut. Do not sharpen the corners of the frame or square them in any way. The frame humps above the rear tires may be beat in for a distance of 8” in each direction from the center of the hump. That is the ONLY frame shaping that is allowed. RUST REPAIR you may butt weld same thickness metal in rusted frame bring cut out piece with, sheet metal trunk repair 1 inch over lap cut out rusted piece bring with 5 ON 5off WELDING ¼ high ¼ wide. Roof and pillar repair for safety must have ½ hole drilled were rusted.
NEW 2013 - We understand that there are bad factory welds, rather not allow you to run a car we are going to allow you to weld 3” on each frame rail to repair a poor weld. This does not mean 4”! The 3” is the maximum and you must paint it bright orange or pink to show us where the weld is. I am putting this rule in for you, if more then 6 inches get the torch out and good luck! Do not push this rule you will if pushed will be taken out for following years. If you do not have anything painted we will assume that the car is all factory welds and will require you to cut the weld new weld out. This is from the firewall bolts forward and top side of the frame only. Weld can not be more that ¼” wide and ¼” tall. This can NOT be on the motor cradle.
BUMPERS:
No Chrysler “V” bumpers are allowed except the car it came stock with. Any other automotive type bumper is allowed. DEC replacement bumper is allowed but may not be modified. You may use a piece of 3”x 3” x 3//8” thick max size tube steel for a bumper but you must weld chrome around it to make it look stock. The bumper must be completely flat, no exceptions. Homemade bumpers cannot protrude past the frame more than 3” on each side. Automotive bumpers may be reinforced but only between the bumper mounting shocks and must remain inside of the bumper. Holes may be plated with ¼” overlap only. You may weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper inner frame. Bumpers must appear stock.
All bumper brackets and shock components must be OEM automotive materials. The bumper shocks may be drained, collapsed and fully welded. The shocks and brackets may be welded to the frame. MOPAR , OLDS,PONTIAC,BUICKS No brackets can be mounted or welded further than 8 INCHES PAST THE CENTER OF THE FRONT BODY MOUNT HOLE - NO EXCEPTIONS . ALL OTHER CARS THERES NO WELDING OR SLIDING THE BRACKETS BACK ANY FARTHER THEN 6 INCHES PAST THE CENTER OF THE BODY BOLT HOLE ON THE FRAME .. Rear brackets are not allowed on the front. If you choose not to use brackets, you may weld your bumper directly to the frame. You may not weld the bumper to the body at any time. Bumpers may be cut to keep them out of the tires. Bumpers may be flipped upside down. Rear bumper brackets may be welded to the frame rail. You may run 4 loops of #9 wire from the radiator support to the bumper in 2 locations outside of the radiator OR you may weld a 2" wide x 6" long x 1/4" thick strap from the bumper to the frame to help keep the bumper on the car. This must remain in one piece. It cannot be angled to the corner of the bumper to form a kicker. You may run 2 pieces of all thread 5/8" x no more than 14" long through the body pan to help hold the bumper on, 5" washer maximum for this bolt.
LEAF SPRINGS:
No leaf spring conversions. 9 leaf maximum, 5/16 " max thickness, 2 ½" wide maximum. Springs must remain stock for the vehicle you are running. Stagger must be remain stock. Leaf spring clamps are allowed. Six per side, three in front of the axle and three behind the axle. Clamp material 3/8" thick, 3" wide, with two 7/16" bolts per clamp. U-bolts can be up to ½” maximum diameter. Stock mounting plates must be used. No homemade mounting plates or oversized u-bolts will be allowed. No welding on the spring pack. No flat sprung cars. Leaf pack must have a minimum of 2” of arch. NO homemade or aftermarket shocks allowed. IF SPRINGS ARE OVER STOCK SIZE THICKNESS YOU WILL HAVE PROBLEMS NO TRUCK SPRINGS.
MISCALLANEOUS:
2003 and newer fords must run stock cradles and stock front suspension with NO modifications whatsoever. Stock suspension, steering rack, cradle period
DRIVERS REQUEST Wire is allowed 4 loops in one strand per window opening may go to body mount , must go around a window opening. Unlimited wire repair after heat.
CADDY NOTES FOR 2013
1970 TO 74 caddys trans cross members cannot make contact with the out side of the frame and the inside frame section at anytime choose to mount crossmember in one place or the other. Motor plate that you use to weld your mounts to can only be welded 6 to the frame inches not the whole length of the motor cross member you may have a gussick off the plate that hangs over. Do not pin motor crossmember in any way do not weld any seams do not weld straps off your motor to the Y opening do not weld straps off A arms to Y openings. There is only 6 inches back past the center of the stock body mount plate of the shock or bracket that may be welded to frame . body mount plate must be in stock location.
INSPECTION NOTES:
Acceptable car height is between 16” and 22”. This will be measured from the bottom of the frame at the front body mount hole and the bottom of the frame in the rear.
Cars that do not have factory access holes in the frame for a scope will be required to drill one or more holes at the discretion of the inspectors. A scope will be used as needed.
Remember these rules are designed to try make all cars compete and not make one car be that one of choice.
All feature cars will be allowed to make repairs after the heats. However all repairs must be made within these set of rules. No welding after the heats. All cars will be re-inspected before the feature.
At the discretion of the officials any winning car may be cut open to verify car is compliant to the building rules. If there is any doubt a car is legal it will be cut open regardless of the condition of the car. Rear shocks will be checked as needed; modified or solid shocks will result in disqualification.
IF YOU CANOT BE INSPECTED FRIDAY BEFORE 6:00 P.M. DO NOT WASTE OUR TIME OR YOURS. NO INSPECTIONS AFTER 6:00 P.M. $100 late fee after that for a 2 hour window Saturday with no guarantees you will get through in 2 hours. This money will go to the prize fund to help another driver.
INSPECTION LINE NOTES
• Guys, after last year I am introducing a new policy. Be nice when you come up to inspection and ask question in a reasonable manner. Realize that we are looking at, crawling around and kneeling around over 120 cars. If you want to female dog and argue a rule and say f$ck that f$ck this I am loading the nice guy policy will be out the window and I will encourage you to load your car and go watch in the stands. We proved last year that we had a fair show and we kept to our rules. There are always grey areas that require the spirit of the rules to come out but we are trying very hard to do our best. Nothing is more disappointing than when you get yelled at for things that are not in the rules or grey areas that were not talked about beforehand
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