Abraham Lincoln
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Who needs skills All i need is Logic
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Post by Abraham Lincoln on Feb 9, 2012 13:56:45 GMT -5
1973-1981 B/R Body Tips/Tricks
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Abraham Lincoln
Feature Winner
Who needs skills All i need is Logic
Posts: 141
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Post by Abraham Lincoln on Feb 10, 2012 1:02:15 GMT -5
CARS THAT SHOULD BE DISCUSSED IN THIS THREAD: (some of these I'm not 100% on... please let me know if I got something wrong) B bodies75-79 Chrysler Cordoba 78-79 Chrysler 300 73-75 Dodge Coronet 73-78 Dodge Charger 76-78 Dodge Monaco 73-78 Dodge Crestwood (wagon) 78-79 Dodge Magnum 73-74 Plymouth Satellite 75-78 Plymouth Fury R bodies79-81 Chrysler Newport 79-81 Chrysler New Yorker 79-81 Dodge St Regis 80-81 Plymouth Gran Fury the basic basic basic build list: Pull the metal sleeves out of the 4 rubber isolators between the K frame and main rails up front & re-bolt it tight. Weld if you can. use a decent full steel box bumper up front, some of these cars have better bumpers than others. hardnose mount works good stock axles are C clip, swap it out for a BIA lower control arms like to fold up under the car, reinforce if you can stock steering column will bind up.... at a minimum remove the collar that bolts to the firewall to give it some room to move both ends of the car are strong but have definite weaknesses that can be addressed with a variety of strategies depending on build rules and personal preference. The later ones have a "double frame" in the rear which helps them out quite a bit BUT it also transfers the forces to different areas, so I have found that you have to account for this when building the car.... especially if the trunk pan has rust ok... got a magnum, and i've put a 9 1/4 rear end under it. the only mounting brackets i had were off an old imperial rearend so therefore there was way too much play between the brackets b/c of the fewer leafsprings in the magnum. i took some old leaf springs and cut them into smaller sections and slid them in... anybody done this or done anything else? You can always make your own. We're allowed 12 inch rear end mounts. Cut a piece of 1/2 inch or thicker..... weld it to the rear end, brace it up and then another piece on the bottom with 8 or more bolts, 4 on each side and let it rip. I would scrap the 9 1/4 and find something else. first off, the coarse spline yokes are the easiest to find because this is what all the aftermarket gearsets use. It's the fine spline ones that are more difficult. Should be easy to find on ebay or Moparts or any of the suppliers like Randy's, Summit, etc. second, I'm not following what the problem is. The leaf springs are sandwiched between the axle and the shock plate/lower mount, all held together with U bolts. If your car had those goofy rubber isolators then you have to ditch the rubber biscuits, ditch the upper section of the mount (the rectangular cup), and sometimes you have to get out the torch to remove some material from the lower plate but it can be made to fit correctly pretty easy. Shouldn't need or want any spacers to make this work. got it fixed... drove it hard and nothing came apart. well i've pulled yokes off 4 rearends and all were fine thread got it fixed... drove it hard and nothing came apart. well i've pulled yokes off 4 rearends and all were fine thread that I can believe, the factory went to fine spline sometime around 1970 but prior to that they were coarse spline and all of the aftermarket ones are coarse spline. Wait, are you talking about the splines for the yoke or the threads for the nut? I have some questions with pulling the rubber mounts and welding the k-member to frame. The metal is covered with oil and other crap so I need to do some grinding. Right now I have the motor pulled, everything disconnected from the k-member, the tires are off. Can I simply unbolt the k-member and it will drop or will the torssion arms hold it up, or will it drop and rip the rubber around the arms. thanks it will drop an inch or two and then the upper control arm mounts will hit on the main rails and hold it from dropping any more. Won't hurt anything. The yoke off a 9 1/4 will work on a fine spline 8 3/4 pinion.. unless your running imperial shafts they are a 1330 u joint which is different.. Any 8 3/4 pre 71 should be course spline On the 79-81 r bodys I have seen the front sway bar get very close to the crank pulley on these after a couple hits anyone have this problem? Also if there anyway to make the bumper shocks hold up in a no weld derby ? Perhaps swap them out for better ones? 1-Get rid of the sway bar 2-Plug weld the inside of the bumper shock tube to the shock. It will be hard for them to see when its bolted to the side of the frame.  that I can believe, the factory went to fine spline sometime around 1970 but prior to that they were coarse spline and all of the aftermarket ones are coarse spline. Wait, are you talking about the splines for the yoke or the threads for the nut? i was referring to the splines on the yoke On the 79-81 r bodys Also if there anyway to make the bumper shocks hold up in a no weld derby ? Perhaps swap them out for better ones? if you are dealing with bolt-only rules then the problem you'll find is that the spacing of the mount holes is unique for the B & R body cars, so it is difficult to make other bumper shocks mount up without some fabricating. None of the others are any better though IMO anyways. Your choices for a true no-weld show are to cheat or deal with the consequences IMO  looking at getting a 77 fury... do u have to pull the motor to take out the k member mounts to suck tight, or is there a way of getting around this cuz im gonna use the 318/ 904 that the car comes with you can pull the rubbers without removing the engine, it can be a little more difficult to get the right angle with the sawzall but it's not a big deal. I'm looking for some opinions on the springs. Is it better to short stack or have the original length springs. I can weld the body seams As far as derby wise goes, is there any difference in R-bodies across the lines? If you don't want info on here please pm me. How tuff are the stock bumpers on a 1977 dodge Monaco. How tuff are the stock bumpers on a 1977 dodge Monaco. If it has steel backing pretty good, some were just a chrome shell with shock mounts so double check. As far as derby wise goes, is there any difference in R-bodies across the lines? If you don't want info on here please pm me. Reason, I ask is I just got a chrysler that has something a little different from its dodge counterpart. st.regis are good cars.if built rite i ran a 77 monaco and it bellied pretty fast has anyone figured out a way to slow it down? There are a few ways but good luck getting away with MOST of the ways in utah  Seems like some boy's from kamas/heber area have them figured out. There were some Nasty K framers ran this year that didn't move for a LONG time. how difficult is it to put a ford in a satellite? i think i need a different oil pan. has anyone done this? pics and advice would be nice. i usually run a sbm. just out of runners and my 400m just wont die There are a few ways but good luck getting away with MOST of the ways in utah Seems like some boy's from kamas/heber area have them figured out. There were some Nasty K framers ran this year that didn't move for a LONG time. haha yeah it seems like a couple people have them figured out but dont like to share their secrets.... i ran a 77 monaco and it bellied pretty fast has anyone figured out a way to slow it down? more welding 79-80 dodge wagon. K frame looks a little bigger, i guese comparing to the 79-81 new yorker, but reall question is "what to do with the rearend. Lately in my area people are not running back bumpers ....... Any ideas for this old girl? hey forgot to ask, do the torsion bars run under the car like normal or side to side in front. ^^^^^ good question? I was working on it last night and discovered that in the front part of the k in clear site nothing blocking them is where something scews, bolts,  ?? never seen something like it? What are they anyone know problem is you're in the wrong section  79-80 Dodge & Plymouth wagons are F body and not B or R body, check the dippy thread for tips on the F body cars. These are smaller and have transverse (side to side) torsion bars. This is an F body wagon:  These are B body wagons: 1971  1976  ...and there are no R body wagons, the only R body configuration made was a 4 door sedan does a 8 3/4 rearend bolt right in? Depends on your leaf set up, and which length 8 3/4 you use. If you are using the factory leafs with the rubber inserts, you have to cut out the eye hole on the 8 3/4 wider. And, like mentioned, different lengths of 8 3/4s. You may have to come-along leafs in or mount one side and come-along the other side out to get them to fit. I mounted an 8 3/4 short in an R-body, and if I remember correctly it required come-alonging the leafs in and on a doba, with the same rear, i had to just pull one side out with my hand to get it to line up. I removed the 8 3/4 out of the r-body to put in a gm rear, but it was set up exactly to line up with an 8 3/4 long housing, to mount in a 73 newport prior, and I had to mount one side in, then come-along the leaf out on the other side to get it to pop in. So when it was in completely, it straitened itself out, but both leafs were on outward angles. So, many variables to answer this question. I've yet to be unable to fit an 8-3/4 in any Mopar car. NYer in Dippy, Imperial in Dart, if you're willing to muscle the springs closer together or further apart it will line up. Next step as mentioned above may be to modify the hole in the perch so that it fits over the centering bolt, or to modify the u-bolt/shock bracket to fit better. had 8 3/4 in a magnum, had to maneuver the leafs a little but did it all by hand so does a 350 chevy with a robbo cradle bolt in just like other chryslers or does it not work that way ^^should bolt in like it would in any other mopar^^ I have a 75 doba... I'm gonna run my first welded show with it and would like some ideas on how to put a cage in the car.... Ive always ran chain and bang so don't no where to start.... Thanks  dash bar is a big help with these cars, but just a basic 4 point is sufficient to keep the jagged sheet metal off your arm. You can go crazy with cages if your rules allow it and really help the car out (kickers/ "protectors") so you'll get better responses if you can describe what the rules will allow you for a cage Thanks but to tell u the truth idk what i can n cant do....  I believe jus bout any thing can be done.... IDK if it helps but im going to be running the doba at brookfield ny or morris ny... i was jus curious on how to even start putting a cage in? ;D What are your thoughts on a short flat leaf pack mounted inline with the "frame"? have been thinking of a few ways to do it but wanted some other opinions as well. Any other tips on how to keep it from bending in the floorboards by the fire wall to limited weld rules? |
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Seems like some boy's from kamas/heber area have them figured out. There were some Nasty K framers ran this year that didn't move for a LONG time.
?? never seen something like it? What are they anyone know
79-80 Dodge & Plymouth wagons are F body and not B or R body, check the dippy thread for tips on the F body cars. These are smaller and have transverse (side to side) torsion bars.
I believe jus bout any thing can be done.... IDK if it helps but im going to be running the doba at brookfield ny or morris ny... i was jus curious on how to even start putting a cage in? ;D