Imperial, NE 8-16-2012 $6500 Purse

[IMP]

The Imperial Jaycees Present:
The Chase County Fair Demolition Derby
Thursday, August 16th, 2012 @ 6:30 P.M.
Location: Chase County Fairgrounds, Imperial, NE.
Access to pit area and parking is gained from East 9th Street.
$6550 Guaranteed Purse
Entry Fee: $50
Pit Pass: $20
Gates Open for Registration and Inspection @ 3:30 P.M. with drivers meeting half hour before derby start time.

3 Divisions:

Full Weld----1st $1500, 2nd $700, 3rd $400
No Weld-----1st $1000, 2nd $500, 3rd $250
Trucks-------1st $1000, 2nd $500, 3rd $250

$450 For Hardest Hitter of The Night

We will run heats if there are enough cars to do so and will pay heat money.

For Rules And Derby Questions Contact:
TROY MALONE @ 308-289-4991 or [e-mail]

[IMP]

Imperial Jaycees
2012 Chase County Fair Demolition Derby Rules & Regulations

These rules are REQUIRED and must be met or you will not run.

The Imperial Jaycees Demolition Derby is promoted as an unusual spectator attraction. In the interest of safety, drivers and mechanics are subject to and must obey the following rules and regulations:

A. Each driver must be a minimum of 16 years of age to drive. Any driver under 18 years of age must have their parents or legal guardians notarized signature giving consent for entry to operate a vehicle in the derby. All drivers will need to fill out an entry form.
B. Each driver, pit crew member and anyone entering pit area must sign a waiver and release of liability which releases the Imperial Jaycees, Chase County, and anyone involved in promotion or participation in this event.
C. The Imperial Jaycees reserve the right to approve or reject any and all entries.
D. The Imperial Jaycees and Chase County will not be held responsible for any cars, parts or personal property before, during and after the show or left overnight.
E. Entry fees shall have been paid prior to participation as an entry in the derby.
F. A drivers meeting will be held one-half hour prior to derby starting time.
G. Overall condition must be safe. This applies to used cars as well as fresh cars. If the officials deem the car unsafe to run, it will not run. The official’s decision is final.
H. ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL MEANING: IF YOU WANT TO CHOOSE TO ARGUE WITH ANY OF THE JUDGES BEFORE, DURING OR AFTER THE DERBY YOU WILL BE DISQUALIFIED.

Driving Rules:

1. A vehicle will be disqualified if the driver’s door comes open during a heat.
2. The car will have 60 seconds after final call to enter the arena or will be disqualified for final heat or any other heat.
3. You must take your flag down immediately and stop if the judges declare you disqualified or you will still be “live bait” to be hit. This rule may be modified at the drivers meeting prior to the derby.
4. The car will be automatically disqualified if 2 tires of the car are outside of the arena boundary.
5. Driver may maneuver forward or backward. NO DELIBERATE HITTING OPPONENT’S CAR IN THE DRIVERS DOOR. DISQUALIFICATION FOR THESE ITEMS IS AUTOMATIC.
6. Contact with another car must be made within 1 minute or be disqualified. If stalled, you have 1 minute to get your car started and 1 minute to make contact for a total of 2 minutes.
7. All drivers and cars must remain in the arena until the judge has officially declared the heat over except in case of a fire. All pit crews must stay out of arena or be disqualified.
8. No spinning of wheels or careless driving outside of arena will result in disqualification.
9. All drivers will be responsible for removal of the car after the derby.
10. A limited number of cars will be permitted to take part in a single heat. The same applies to the final main event. No changing of heats.
11. Cars will be numbered and sponsor’s names can be on it if so desired. Roof top numbers are required. Must be 18” vertical and readable from both sides.
12. A $250.00 protest fee is required to contest another car.
13. ABSOLUTELY NO GANGING UP.
14. ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL MEANING: IF YOU WANT TO CHOOSE TO ARGUE WITH ANY OF THE JUDGES BEFORE, DURING OR AFTER THE DERBY YOU WILL BE DISQUALIFIED.

[IMP]

Imperial Jaycees
2012 Chase County Fair Demolition Derby Safety Rules

These rules are REQUIRED for each class and must be met or you will not run.

1. Overall condition must be safe. This applies to used cars as well as some fresh cars. IF the officials deem the car unsafe to run, it will not run. The official’s decision is final.

2. SFI-1 or better, Certified Fire jacket recommended. SFI-1 or better, pants recommended. Long pants are required. Eye protection and gloves highly recommended. Shoes are required.

3. Minimum of D.O.T. rated helmet required. Full-face helmets and neck braces recommended.

4. Seat belts are required, must be functional, and fastened to the floor or seat bracket. Official’s decision is final, must be safe.

5. Car must be fully stripped of all flammable material. Factory seats and factory dash are allowed. All glass, chrome, door handles, and any unsafe items must be removed from the inside and outside of the cars. All plastic, stainless and pot metal trim, fiberglass, and rubber must be removed from the outside of the car. Car floor, trunks, and inside of doors must be swept of glass, debris, and must be clean. Factory floor drain plugs must be removed.

6. Factory fuel tank(s) must be removed. Unused factory fuel lines must be blown free of gas. Removing unused fuel lines recommended. Factory fuel tank may not be re-used.

7. Driver door must be welded shut for safety. Welding the outer driver door seams completely is highly recommended. Welding the inner driver door seams allowed. Outer driver door skin reinforcement is allowed and highly recommended. This reinforcement may not extend in front of the front door seam more than 10”, and may not extend past the rear door seam more than 10”. This reinforcement may be sheet metal plate, angle iron, pipe, etc. but must conform somewhat to the drivers door and must be attached well. We want the driver to be safe but we don’t want something protruding clear out away from the door skin making it dangerous to be ripped off. Reinforcement on the inside of the driver door with pipe, down bar and other material is allowed.

8. A minimum of two steel straps, bars, or #9 wire must be located in windshield area. These may be bolted or welded. These straps or bars are required to prevent the hood from entering the passenger compartment (official’s decision is final, must be safe).

9. All batteries must be re-located inside of passenger compartment. The batteries must be in a solid container and must be securely fastened and covered (official’s decision is final, must be safe).

10. No steel gas “cans” or plastic gas “jugs” allowed. A steel boat tank is allowed, however, any metal tank deemed safe by the officials is acceptable. Metal tanks do not need to be covered. Any plastic or urethane “fuel cell” must be in a solid metal container, 1/8” minimum steel. The fuel tank must be securely fastened inside the passenger compartment forward of the rear axle. It must not leak. No exceptions. Electric fuel pumps are allowed. Official’s decision is final, must be safe.

11. Hoods must have a minimum of two 8”x8” holes for fire control.

12. Oil coolers, engine and transmission, are allowed. High-pressure (hydraulic type) lines and fittings are recommended. No gas hose is allowed. It must be compatible with transmission oil. If low pressure rated oil hose is used, minimum of two hose clamps per fitting. Non high-pressure oil hose is recommended to be covered for added protection. Engine cooler hose and fittings must be high pressure. If air coolers (fans) are used, a shield is recommended between the cooler and the driver.

13. Low-pressure rated fuel hose in the passenger compartment, from electric fuel pump to fire wall is recommended to be covered for added protection.

14. No wheel weights or balance weights allowed on wheel rims. Valve stem protection is allowed.

15. Radiator coolant over flow tubes must point straight down. Hot coolant must not spray the driver or other competitors.

16. Driver door area is recommended to be painted a contrasting color to the car body. This is to help officials determine a driver door hit.

[IMP]

Imperial Jaycees
2012 Chase County Fair Demolition Derby Full Weld Rules

These rules are REQUIRED and must be met or you will not run.


1. Vehicles Allowed :
Any stock American made automobiles or station wagons are allowed. No jeeps, trucks, convertibles, hearses, ambulances, or limousines are allowed.

2. Welding :
You may weld any inside and outside factory seam. You may also weld any home-made seams. Tops of doors, and areas that had moving windows, may be pinched together and welded.

3. Seat/Dash Support:
A steel seat support (seat bar) is required from the inside of the driver door(s) across to the passenger door(s), must be behind the seat, and may be placed horizontal or angled. If placed horizontal you may use 2 seat bars from door post to door post. If placed at an angle you may use 2 seat bars and make an “x” brace going from driver side to passenger side and vice versa which may be welded to the frame or floor tin. This seat bar must be made of steel, 2” x 2” x ¼” square, 2 ½” x ¼” round minimum, and up to 8” square or round maximum. Steel plates are recommended on the ends of this seat bar which can be up to 12” x 12” x ½” maximum. These steel plates must be welded well to the seat bar (official’s decision is final, must be safe). The steel plates may be bolted to the car, however welding is highly recommended. If you use the angle “x” brace method for seat bar and attach to frame, you may not use the steel plates on the frame, can only weld to frame. IF the factory dash is removed, a support (dash bar) similar to the seat support is required. Dash bar may go across post to post or from driver side post extending to at least half the width of car and then angled down to the passengers side frame or floor tin. If you use a dash bar, it may be connected to the seat support bar with similar material. These “door” bars may be against inner door skin. These “door” bars may not extend past the dash or seat supports more than 6”. You may also use one down bar on the driver side and one down bar on the passenger side. These down bars must be vertical and go from the “door” bar to the floor tin or frame. A 6” x 6” x ¼” plate is allowed to be used if you only attach to floor tin. Drivers door bar, and drivers door down bar, is highly recommended for your safety.

4. Halo/Roll Bar:
A halo bar or rollover bar is allowed. The addition of “posts” on hardtop sedans (connecting top of doors to roof) is also allowed. Halo or rollover bar may run on the exterior (top) or interior (inside) of the roof and may be welded to the seat support. The roll over or halo bar may extend down to the floor tin or to the frame. A 6” x 6” x ¼” plate is allowed to be used if you only attach to floor tin.

5. Rear Window Bar:
Two post or pillar bars allowed in rear window area from roof down to rear valance panel. If no valance panel then must stay at top 6" of trunk lid. One 6” x 6” x ¼” plate at the roof and one 6” x 6” x ¼” plate at the front edge of the trunk lid are allowed with these “posts”.

6. Frames :
Welding of body to frame is allowed. You can re-weld ALL factory frame seams. Home made motor and transmission mounts will be allowed and can be welded to frame. K-frame cars may weld k-frame to sub-frame. Call if you don't know what a k-frame car is. K-frame swaps are allowed and may be welded or bolted in. Body bolts & bushings may be removed and bolts up to 1" may be used to bolt body directly to frame with 6" x 1/4" washers. The addition of two body mount bolts, (one bolt per frame rail) through the body isolators in the rear seat area of GM sedans allowed. The addition of two body mount bolts through the floor sheet metal, down to the shock absorber towers, below the rear speaker deck, in Mopar cars allowed. The addition of two body mount bolts (one bolt per frame rail) through the frame, near the top of the "humps" in 71' - 76' GM station wagons allowed. These bolts are allowed to be put in the spot where GM made a provision for a body mount, but only installed this body mount in a few wagons. Now all wagons are allowed to have this mount. All trailer hitches, tow bars, and other material used for towing, must be removed completely.
Frame Definition:
Frame is defined as being able to be removed from the body by bolts.

7. Bumper Rules :
Any car bumper allowed on any car. Bumpers may be chained, bolted, or welded on. Bumpers may be cut. Bumpers may be welded to the brackets. Brackets may be welded to the frame. Bumpers may be welded to the frame. Brackets may be cut and rearranged. You may use both the factory brackets that came with the bumper being used and the factory brackets that came with the car. Bumpers may have seams welded. Bumpers may be mounted upside down. Rear bumpers allowed on the front. Front bumpers allowed on the rear. Brackets may be cut or bent to conform to the frame rails. All brackets must make contact with the bumper. Mopar cars 1973 and older (Y-framer), may “plate” (factory brackets) top and bottom of the “Y”. If you don’t know what a y-framer is, call and ask. Two straps 2” x 3/8” thick may be welded or bolted from the hood and trunk to the bumpers. Front straps must be placed to the outside of the radiator, not in front to protect the radiator. When welding these straps to either side, only a total of six inches may be welded to hold it on to the bumpers or hood/trunk on either end.

8. Doors :
Doors must be chained, bolted, or welded shut. Drivers door must be welded shut (official’s decision is final, must be safe). Chain must be a minimum of 1/4", bolts must be a minimum of 3/8", and weld must be 4" on a minimum of four spots per seam. It is highly recommended to fully weld over every seam. 4" wide by 3/16" strap maximum allowed to weld over seams. Maximum size chain 3/8”.

9. Trunk Lids/Wagon Tail Gates
Trunk lids and station wagon tail gates may be chained, bolted, or welded shut (the same as the doors). In addition, four bolts (maximum 1" diameter) are allowed in the trunk from the bottom of the trunk pan up through the top of the trunk lid. These four bolts are allowed to go down through the frame and may be bolted or welded to the frame. The use of 6” washers or plates are allowed for the bolts. You may wedge or tuck the trunk. Pre-forming or pre-bending the body sheet metal is allowed. It may be cut to shape it and may be re-welded or bolted back together.

10. Hoods :
Hoods may be chained, bolted, or welded shut (the same as the doors). In addition, eight bolts (maximum 1” diameter) are allowed to hold down the hood. These eight bolts may go through or down to the frame and may be bolted or welded. The use of 6” washers or plates are allowed for the bolts. Hood excess may be bent or folded down and welded to bumper. Hoods must have a minimum of two 12” holes for fire control. Holes cut in hood for fire control or headers may be welded or bolted back together. The excess metal may also be bent or folded over and welded or bolted.

11. Fender Wells :
Fenders may be cut for a larger wheel well opening. Fenders may be bolted or welded back together after cut and rolled. Excess front fender in front of radiator support may be cut, folded over, and bolted or welded back together.

12. Engines :
Drivers may use any model engine and drive train in any car. Engine and transmission mounts may be fabricated and welded. These mounts may be welded or bolted to the frame.

13. Radiator :
You do not have to use a radiator but if you do it must be in front of engine. Ratchet straps, wire, and chain may be used to hold in radiator. Aluminum radiators may be used. Electric fans may be used. Air conditioner condensers may be welded directly to the radiator support, and may use filler rod (1/2” diameter maximum) or plates to do so.

14. Radiator Support :
Radiator support mount bushings may be removed completely. The radiator support may contact the frame and may be welded to it. Two “radiator mount” bolts are allowed to attach the radiator mount to the frame. The two “radiator mount” bolts may be up to 1" diameter. These two bolts may be welded to the frame. These two bolts may extend straight down through to the bottom side of the frame. These two bolts may be placed on the outward side, or inward side, of the frame rails. These two bolts may extend up next to the radiator support, through to the top of the hood, and be used as two hood hold down bolts. These two bolts may be welded to the radiator support. #9 wire, in two locations, may be used from the front hood hold-downs or bolts from the radiator support down to front bumper. A bushing or nut allowed to be welded to the top of the bumper to attach the #9 wire.

15. Rear Ends, Suspension, and Leaf Springs :
Rear axle assemblies may be interchanged, but may not be full floater type. Must not have more than five wheel studs per axle shaft. “Hybrid” type housing assemblies are allowed. Rear axle housing braces are allowed. Mounts may be fabricated. Rear control arms on coiled cars may be reinforced, lengthened, and shortened. Leaf spring conversions are allowed but must be done cleanly with no major reinforcement of frame. Leaf springs must be no more than factory width and must be staggered at least 1" between leafs. 4 leaf spring clamps allowed per leaf spring pack, 8 total per car. Maximum size of clamps is 2" wide by 5" long by 1/2" thick. Double coil springs are allowed, (one coil spring turned inside a second coil spring). Coil springs may be wired, welded, or cabled in on top and bottom. Air shock lines must be cut. Front and rear factory leaf spring brackets on Mopar cars may be welded to the floor brackets and or sub-frame brackets. Leaf spring cars may move rear of leaf springs under frame. Fabricated rear shackles are allowed. Front leaf spring brackets on leaf spring cars may be reinforced but must not strategically reinforce the frame or rear sub-frame. Shocks are allowed. One strand of chain 3/8” size maximum allowed to replace the shock. This strand of chain must be mounted at the same factory location, both top and bottom, as the factory shock. Chain must be mounted the same as the shock. You may use either one shock, or one strand of chain, not both (builder’s choice). Wire (four loops maximum) or cable (one loop of 3/8") from driver side frame rail across to the passenger side frame rail is allowed. If used, it must be located above and behind the rear axle housing. This wire or cable may go through or around the frame rails. “Eye” bolts may also be used to attach the wire or cable to the frame rails.

16. Tires :
We do not want flats. No balance or wheel weights allowed on any rim. No grease or oil allowed on tires. No bigger than 16" rims, no split rims, no studded tires on driven wheels. No rim reinforcements. No spikes, paddles, or other material to be welded inside or to the rim. No liquid filled tires allowed. Rim screws allowed. Implement tread, forklift type, foam filled, urethane, solid, and double tires are allowed. Valve stem protection is allowed. Any ply allowed.

17. #9 Wire :
#9 wire is allowed in all cars. Two spots per window allowed. Each spot may be up to 2 loops (four single strands). #9 wire is allowed from the roof straight down to the floor. Washers (1” inside diameter maximum) allowed to be welded to the roof. The #9 wire is allowed to wrap around the frame rails. The #9 wire may also be attached to the floor area, and to the body mount washers or plates. #9 wire must be vertical and not angled. No crossing of loops.

18. Station Wagons :
The rear “decking” in station wagons may be chained, bolted, or welded shut (the same as the doors). No method may go to or around the frame. Must be sheet metal to sheet metal only. In addition, two bolts (1” diameter maximum) may be used in station wagons. These two bolts may go from the bottom of the frame, up through the decking, and up to the top of the roof. These two bolts, with washers or plates up to 6“, are similar to trunk lids on sedans. A inspection hole in "decking" or lower floor sheet metal may be requested upon inspection

19. Frame and Sheet Metal Repair :
Repairs to frame must only be on 2 sides and 2” either side of repair. ¼” max thickness plate for repair. Tears and holes in sheet metal may be patched. The patching material should be same thickness as factory material for that car. No “outlaw” type cars allowed.

20. Fabricated and Home Made Equipment :
The use of fabricated and home made parts such as steering columns, fuel pedals, brake pedals, transmission shifters, driveline brakes, headers, engine cradles/protectors, slider driveshafts, distributor protectors, seat brackets, battery boxes, fuel tanks, etc. are allowed. Transmission and engine oil coolers are allowed.

[IMP]

Imperial Jaycees
2012 Chase County Fair Demolition Derby Truck Rules

These rules are REQUIRED and must be met or you will not run.


General Rules for Truck, Suburban and Vans:
1. All rules will be followed, or you will not run!!
2. Any 2 or 4 wheel drive may be used. 4 wheel drives must take out 1 drive shaft. Up to 1tons only-frame heights will be measured!!
Truck Prep:
1. Must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
2. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
3. Use motor and tranny of choice, motor must be in stock location. You may chain or weld motor and tranny to keep in place.
4. You must use a radiator and it must be in stock location. No Barrels! You can run without radiator but must loop hoses together!
5. All vehicles must have working brakes. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
6. Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell and it must be properly secured and covered. No plastic tanks or gas cans. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell in the center of the box, behind the cab. You may make a box or small cage for your tank.
7. Transmission coolers will be allowed, but must be safe and properly secured.
8. Batteries must be moved to passenger floorboard close to transmission. It must be properly secured and covered.
9. You must have a number on each front door and a 12”x15” sign with number on top for recognition of vehicle.
Rules for Truck Building:
1. Must have at least 4 bolts additional to the factory bolts up to 1 inch in size and a minimum of a 3-inch washer but no bigger then 8 inch washers holding the box to the frame.
2. Cab must be bolted down solid with at least 4 additional bolts up to 1 inch in size with a minimum of a 3-inch washer.
3. Box and Cab may be welded to the frame, but may not add metal. Just use the welder. The cab and box may be welded together and you may use a fill material to fill the gap between the cab and box. Filler can’t be bigger then 4 inch strap.
4. Must have dash bar, bar behind seat and bars connecting the dash bar to the bar behind seat NO farther back then 12 inches from the back of cab. You can have a cross bar at the 12 inches in the box with 2 down bars. Back down bars must be straight down and not angled! You may also have a roll loop in the box up against the cab with kickers no farther back then the front of front spring mounts. Must be min of 2 inches in front of spring mounts. Kickers can only be attached to roll loop only!
5. Tailgate must be welded or taken off. Inside bottom of tailgate can have a 3” X 3” angle iron cross bottom only. Use no bigger then 2 strap on outside of tailgate and only use small filler on inside except the bottom.
6. Solid welding is allowed inside and out, hood must have a large hole cut in center for inspections. Hood may be welded shut solid. No bigger then 2 inch strap ¼” thick can be used to weld hood shut. If hole in hood isn’t large enough for inspection, you will have to cut a bigger hole!!
7. 2 pieces of all thread up to 1 inch from the frame to hood is allowed, but must go through the front radiator support body mount. This can be welded to the side of frame. May have up to 8 spots total to hold the hood down. All other hood ties must be sheet metal to sheet metal. Can use #9 wire, 3/8 cable, 3/8 chain or up to 1 inch bolts for the hood
8. You can have a 3x3 angle or square tube across the inside of your Radiator support with 2 kickers (3x3) attached to the frame in front of the A-arms to the top side of the frame only!
9. Wire in 4 spots may be use from the tailgate and hood to the bumpers on the front and back of the trucks.
10. Any automotive bumpers and bumper brackets may be used on the front and rear of vehicle. Bumpers may be re-enforced on the inside only. Bumpers and bumper brackets may be welded. Must have bumpers on the front and rear of the truck. From the end of the frame back 8” may be re-enforced, nothing bigger than 8” long and as wide as the frame is tall piece may be used. No connecting the frame rails to each other with Added materials!! You may also have 2- straps-4”wide X 1/4” on the front and rear bumpers. You can only weld 8 inches to the frame and 8 inches to bumper. Strap must go straight from frame to bumper.
11. MAX. Bumper height is 30 inches to top of bumper in the center.
12. Any ply of tire is allowed, we don’t want any flats.
13. Rear ends/springs may be tied to the frame in 2 spots per side. Use #9 wire, 3/8 cable or 3/8 chain. Springs may be clamped with 6 clamps per side. No more then 14 springs in rear & 9 spring in front with 2 inch stagger.
14. Engine cradles/ car cradles can be welded to front frame. You can not have any kickers off cradle and only use welder to weld.
15. Tie-rod ends may be re-enforced, but must be workable. A-arms may be welded/bolted to frame.
16. If you re-stub a frame, it must be done with same style/ era of frame. This can only be done with a used truck and not fresh!
Any body combinations may be used with any frame. Must be stock bodies and nothing homemade!
17. Converting front suspensions from coil spring to leaf springs will not be allowed!

[IMP]

saved for no weld rules---still deciding on which set to use

[IMP]

they are looking for input from the drivers to make the derby better. they raised the payouts last year and it still didn't bring in the cars. after having only 2 compact cars last year they axed the compact class and are trying trucks for the first time this year. this derby needs cars/drivers or it may be on the fairboards chopping block. willing to do whatever it takes to get the cars here. so don't be afraid to give any input about anything; rules, payouts, suggestions, etc....i was thinking if no cars show up this year then in 2013 try to have one big no weld very limited build type derby that pays out more places using all of the purse money