Post by DerbyMaMa on Mar 5, 2012 6:06:41 GMT -5
Big Car Demolition Derby Rules
ALLOWED RULES
Any year cars except imperials!
Motor and rear end swaps are allowed. Engine mounts may be welded with no added steel.2 chains may be used for motor. 2003 and up, engine cradles (Ford cradles only) may be swapped but no excessive welding or no plating.
Tilt the front end with no added metal.
You can run solid suspension.
A arms may be welded with the strap 10” long, 3” wide x ¼. ONLY 2 PER SIDE!
Any year bumper allowed. You can weld bumper seams. Weld straight to frame. Bumper shocks no longer than 12”. You can reinforce FRONT BUMPERS ONLY . DEC bumpers are allowed.
You may run distributor protectors and hump plates. Plates no longer than 22” and no thicker than 1/4. Plates must conform to frame and be center of humps.
You may run 1 or the other:
(a)Distributor protector kicker –OR
(b) 2 kickers down behind a frame to dash bar 2x2 tubing.
You can not run both. If you run a distributor protector and 2 kickers down behind a frame, then no kicker behind the distributor protector.
You can wire bumper in 4 spots.
You can use up to 1” all thread in core support. Core support mount 3 x 3 x ¼ max!
You can wire or bolt hood in 6 spots with a max of 1” all thread, however we must be able to access engine in case of fires
You may plate a pre-ran car with 2 plates per bend with a max of 6 plate. 3 x 3” but no thicker than ¼ plate and we must be able to see where car was bent or broken. No plating on fresh car.
You can use up to 20 5/16 bolts around cut out of hood but no bolts in fender wells.
Gas tank protectors are allowed no wider than 30”. It can go back to the fire wall but DO NOT BEAT OR PUSH SHEET METAL BACK. No bolting to frame or sheet metal at rear.
You can run a transcooler but it must be mounted to where it does not strengthen the car.
You can run a back glass bar. Bar can not go more than 3” past rear glass seal and 3” past rain channels. Back bar no more than 3” wide and ½” thick. Only 1 bar allowed!
Four point cage allowed. Back bar no further back than 12” past driver’s seat. Side bars no further back than ½ way of the back door. NO HALO BARS! Front bar must be at least 5” from the firewall. Center bar will be allowed, but cannot extend past front or back of cage.
Roll over bar must be straight up and down. No slanting!
Doors and trunks can be wired or welded solid. No more than 1” overlapping with a max of 3” wide straps. Trunk must have a 12 x 12 hole in it. For inspection, we must be able to see all four corners.
Front windshield bar is allowed but can’t be behind the distributor protector.
You can weld frame a-arms forward top only ½” one pass.
You can run 2 batteries and an electric fan.
2 down legs from cage to frame. (front or back) Not in crush box or humps.
You may replace body bolts with 1” all thread. All thread must be inside frame with 1” gap between body and frame.
You may run slip shaft.
You can run rear end protector but it can not reinforce the car in anyway.
Pre-creasing is allowed.
No leaf spring conversions. If car came with leaf springs, then it must be OEM.
NOT ALLOWED
Gas pedal can’t be used as a kicker.
Bumper height can not be higher than 21” and no lower than 16” to the bottom of the bumper.
You can not run an engine fan or an electric fan unless it is covered by the hood.
No body seam welding.
No double skinning of any body panel. No chains, except 1 12 in. chain 3/8 in. thick per side from the head to the engine cradle.
Any additional welding, braising or bolting will disqualify car.
IF IT SAYS YOU CAN DO IT, DO IT! IF IT DON’T SAY IT, DON’T DO IT! RULES WILL BE STRICKLY ENFORCED!
COMPETITION RULES
1. NO FLAGRANT driver door hits. You will get 1 warning. No profanity from any car.
2. Driver must pay at the gate.
3. No double teaming or sandbagging. Your only warning will be at the driver’s meeting.
4. Safety belts and approved helmets are required.
5. All glass must be removed before you enter the fairgrounds.
6. Maximum of 7 gallons of gas will be allowed.
7. One fire will be put out – second fire will disqualify the car. Fire Department has final say!
8. Any door which comes open during a heat or feature will disqualify the car.
9. Rollovers will be turned back over. You will be able to continue if car is proven to be safe.
10. You must stay in your car with helmet on, unless told to do otherwise by an official. If you leave
your car for any other reason you will forfeit any money or trophy.
11. Any driver or pit crew fighting will be disqualified and asked to leave the fairgrounds, forfeiting
any money or trophies. Should a driver be in a second fight at any other Central Kentucky
Demolition Derby Points series, then he will be disqualified from the points standings and money.
12. Last 2 cars in feature if stuck together will be pulled apart. Last hit wins – not last car running.
Official has final say.
13. Only driver and track officials allowed on track at any time.
14. You will have 2 minutes to make a hit or you will be disqualified.
15. No pin to win rule.
16. Winner of the heat may substitute another car in the feature if he or she can prove their car is
unable to compete.
17. Any protesting of a car must be done during the driver’s meeting and done by a driver that is
running in the derby.
18. Driver must pay before car is inspected. If car does not pass inspection, there will be no refunds.
You will be given 1 chance to make any changes to the car in order for it to pass inspection.
19. All drivers must be 18 years old or older. 16 & 17 year olds will be allowed with signed waiver
from legal guardian.
20. NOTE: Once cars are entered and entry fee paid, cars will be pulled to inspection area for
inspections and only the driver of car allowed in inspection area (beside track officials). Eric
Keller, who is head track official, will have the final say on all inspections, changes or questions
about cars. NO EXCEPTIONS. If car can not run in preliminary heat after passing inspection for
what ever reason, car will NOT be allowed to run in junk heat and there will be no refund of entry
fee.
21. NOTE: Driver must have car’s entry fee paid and in line to be inspected no later than 7:00 PM.
If a car wants to enter after 7:00 then they may pay and enter by 7:15 BUT an additional $25.00
will be added to entry fees. Anyone trying to enter after 7:15 will be turned away!
We will open inspections by 3:00 PM the afternoon of the derby so no excuses will be allowed for
late entry! The derby will start at 8:00 PM PROMPTLY.
22. We will be a part of a points series with other central Kentucky Derbies and will transfer all points
to the appropriate people after the derby is over along with $10.00 of the $50.00 entry fee per car.
Point series will end October 2012.
Any questions please call
Eric Keller
859-265-0489
Small Car Demolition Derby Rules
Allowed Rules
Any year, 4 or 6 cylinder. Wheel base is 108. If it is 108, it must be unibody.
Motor and rear end swaps are allowed. Engine mounts may be welded with no added steel.2 chains may be used for motor. 2003 and up, engine cradles (Ford cradles only) may be swapped but no excessive welding or no plating.
Tilt the front end with no added metal.
You can run solid suspension.
A arms may be welded with the strap 10” long, 3” wide x ¼. ONLY 2 PER SIDE!
Any year bumper allowed. You can weld bumper seams. Weld straight to frame. Bumper shocks no longer than 12”. You can reinforce FRONT BUMPERS ONLY . DEC bumpers are allowed.
You may run distributor protectors and hump plates. Plates no longer than 22” and no thicker than 1/4. Plates must conform to frame and be center of humps.
You may run 1 or the other:
(a)Distributor protector kicker –OR
(b) 2 kickers down behind a frame to dash bar 2x2 tubing.
You can not run both. If you run a distributor protector and 2 kickers down behind a frame, then no kicker behind the distributor protector.
You can wire bumper in 4 spots.
You can use up to 1” all thread in core support. Core support mount 3 x 3 x ¼ max!
You can wire or bolt hood in 6 spots with a max of 1” all thread, however we must be able to access engine in case of fires
You may plate a pre-ran car with 2 plates per bend with a max of 6 plate. 3 x 3” but no thicker than ¼ plate and we must be able to see where car was bent or broken. No plating on fresh car.
You can use up to 20 5/16 bolts around cut out of hood but no bolts in fender wells.
Gas tank protectors are allowed no wider than 30”. It can go back to the fire wall but DO NOT BEAT OR PUSH SHEET METAL BACK. No bolting to frame or sheet metal at rear. If it is a stock gas tank, it must be covered and secured. No movement!
You can run a transcooler but it must be mounted to where it does not strengthen the car.
You can run a back glass bar. Bar can not go more than 3” past rear glass seal and 3” past rain channels. Back bar no more than 3” wide and ½” thick. Only 1 bar allowed!
Four point cage allowed. Back bar no further back than 12” past driver’s seat. Side bars no further back than ½ way of the back door. NO HALO BARS! Front bar must be at least 5” from the firewall. Center bar will be allowed, but cannot extend past front or back of cage.
Roll over bar must be straight up and down. No slanting!
Doors and trunks can be wired or welded solid. No more than 1” overlapping with a max of 3” wide straps. Trunk must have a 12 x 12 hole in it. For inspection, we must be able to see all four corners.
Front windshield bar is allowed but can’t be behind the distributor protector.
You can weld frame a-arms forward top only ½” one pass.
You can run 2 batteries and an electric fan.
2 down legs from cage to frame. (front or back) Not in crush box or humps.
You may replace body bolts with 1” all thread. All thread must be inside frame with 1” gap between body and frame.
You may run slip shaft.
You can run rear end protector but it can not reinforce the car in anyway.
Pre-creasing is allowed.
No leaf spring conversions. If car came with leaf springs, then it must be OEM.
NOT ALLOWED
Gas pedal can’t be used as a kicker.
Bumper height can not be higher than 21” and no lower than 16” to the bottom of the bumper.
You can not run an engine fan or an electric fan unless it is covered by the hood.
No body seam welding.
No double skinning of any body panel. No chains, except 1 12 in. chain 3/8 in. thick per side from the head to the engine cradle.
Any additional welding, braising or bolting will disqualify car.
No wedging or cutdowns.
IF IT SAYS YOU CAN DO IT, DO IT! IF IT DON’T SAY IT, DON’T DO IT! RULES WILL BE STRICKLY ENFORCED!
SEE LARGE CAR RULES PAGE FOR THE COMPETITION RULES FOR THE HARRODSBURG’S DEMOLITION DERBIES.
Any questions contact:
Eric Keller
859-265-0489
Lawnmower Derby Rules
Mower must be a factory available lawnmower or garden mower. (No homemade frames)
No rear engine lawnmowers are allowed.
Engine must be factory lawnmower engine such as Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, Onan, or etc. (22 hp max)
All modification and frame reinforcing will be allowed. Front end of mower cannot be lower than 6 inches.
Transaxles must be factory available mower transaxles, but any reinforcing and/or welding of spider gears are permitted.
Engine bay reinforcing is permitted but must be contained inside hood and must maintain factory body lines. Front of mower can be 18 in. past the front. Motor also has to be covered.
All mowers must have the hood either screwed or welded down to dash panel around drivers’ area. It must have 8x8 hole just in case of a fire.
Mowers must have good brakes, forward, and reverse gears at the start of the heat.
Gas tank must be secured and have a cap on it. (If any gas at all is found leaking, you will be asked to shut it down) No rear gas tanks or any underneath seat.
Leg guards are mandatory and must be bolted and/or welded from rear fender to front of foot rest or frame.
A rear bumper is permitted, but is not allowed to extend more than 4 inches out and it must stay in between the tires. Also no spikes, no sharp edges or any protrusions allowed. (Bumper can be homemade with I/H beam or square tubing)
Re-gearing and changing of pulleys to increase speed is permitted and encouraged.
Any and all drive train modifications are permitted but must stay belt driven.
All mowers must use lawnmower type wheels. Tractor treads and cut tires will be permitted but no tire chains or dual wheels will be allowed.
Mower decks must be removed.
All headlights and any other glass and plastics must be removed before you enter the fairgrounds.
Batteries must be removed from mower and only used to jump start the mower before the heat begins. (If a pull start is used, drivers will not be permitted to restart engine during the heat.)
No front bumpers. You can build up the front of the frame and underneath the grill to hit with. The front of the mower must be smooth finish for safety.
Any rollovers will be disqualified. (If a driver touches the ground with a hand or foot, the driver is disqualified.)
For safety, if a mower rolls over, all drivers must stop and wait until that driver is upright and is off the track.
Please put your number on each side of the mower.
Mowers must have a kill switch. If an official shuts off your kill switch, we have an option to start it back up.
Everything must be inside the tires.
All ground rules will be gone over in a drivers meeting before the heat.
Entry fees are $30.00 per lawnmower, with $5.00 per car going to the points series. The rest will be 100 % pay back to participants.
All drivers pay admission to enter the grounds.
Please keep in mind when building your mower, safety first for you and the mower you are hitting!
Any questions call:
Eric Keller
265-0489
ALLOWED RULES
Any year cars except imperials!
Motor and rear end swaps are allowed. Engine mounts may be welded with no added steel.2 chains may be used for motor. 2003 and up, engine cradles (Ford cradles only) may be swapped but no excessive welding or no plating.
Tilt the front end with no added metal.
You can run solid suspension.
A arms may be welded with the strap 10” long, 3” wide x ¼. ONLY 2 PER SIDE!
Any year bumper allowed. You can weld bumper seams. Weld straight to frame. Bumper shocks no longer than 12”. You can reinforce FRONT BUMPERS ONLY . DEC bumpers are allowed.
You may run distributor protectors and hump plates. Plates no longer than 22” and no thicker than 1/4. Plates must conform to frame and be center of humps.
You may run 1 or the other:
(a)Distributor protector kicker –OR
(b) 2 kickers down behind a frame to dash bar 2x2 tubing.
You can not run both. If you run a distributor protector and 2 kickers down behind a frame, then no kicker behind the distributor protector.
You can wire bumper in 4 spots.
You can use up to 1” all thread in core support. Core support mount 3 x 3 x ¼ max!
You can wire or bolt hood in 6 spots with a max of 1” all thread, however we must be able to access engine in case of fires
You may plate a pre-ran car with 2 plates per bend with a max of 6 plate. 3 x 3” but no thicker than ¼ plate and we must be able to see where car was bent or broken. No plating on fresh car.
You can use up to 20 5/16 bolts around cut out of hood but no bolts in fender wells.
Gas tank protectors are allowed no wider than 30”. It can go back to the fire wall but DO NOT BEAT OR PUSH SHEET METAL BACK. No bolting to frame or sheet metal at rear.
You can run a transcooler but it must be mounted to where it does not strengthen the car.
You can run a back glass bar. Bar can not go more than 3” past rear glass seal and 3” past rain channels. Back bar no more than 3” wide and ½” thick. Only 1 bar allowed!
Four point cage allowed. Back bar no further back than 12” past driver’s seat. Side bars no further back than ½ way of the back door. NO HALO BARS! Front bar must be at least 5” from the firewall. Center bar will be allowed, but cannot extend past front or back of cage.
Roll over bar must be straight up and down. No slanting!
Doors and trunks can be wired or welded solid. No more than 1” overlapping with a max of 3” wide straps. Trunk must have a 12 x 12 hole in it. For inspection, we must be able to see all four corners.
Front windshield bar is allowed but can’t be behind the distributor protector.
You can weld frame a-arms forward top only ½” one pass.
You can run 2 batteries and an electric fan.
2 down legs from cage to frame. (front or back) Not in crush box or humps.
You may replace body bolts with 1” all thread. All thread must be inside frame with 1” gap between body and frame.
You may run slip shaft.
You can run rear end protector but it can not reinforce the car in anyway.
Pre-creasing is allowed.
No leaf spring conversions. If car came with leaf springs, then it must be OEM.
NOT ALLOWED
Gas pedal can’t be used as a kicker.
Bumper height can not be higher than 21” and no lower than 16” to the bottom of the bumper.
You can not run an engine fan or an electric fan unless it is covered by the hood.
No body seam welding.
No double skinning of any body panel. No chains, except 1 12 in. chain 3/8 in. thick per side from the head to the engine cradle.
Any additional welding, braising or bolting will disqualify car.
IF IT SAYS YOU CAN DO IT, DO IT! IF IT DON’T SAY IT, DON’T DO IT! RULES WILL BE STRICKLY ENFORCED!
COMPETITION RULES
1. NO FLAGRANT driver door hits. You will get 1 warning. No profanity from any car.
2. Driver must pay at the gate.
3. No double teaming or sandbagging. Your only warning will be at the driver’s meeting.
4. Safety belts and approved helmets are required.
5. All glass must be removed before you enter the fairgrounds.
6. Maximum of 7 gallons of gas will be allowed.
7. One fire will be put out – second fire will disqualify the car. Fire Department has final say!
8. Any door which comes open during a heat or feature will disqualify the car.
9. Rollovers will be turned back over. You will be able to continue if car is proven to be safe.
10. You must stay in your car with helmet on, unless told to do otherwise by an official. If you leave
your car for any other reason you will forfeit any money or trophy.
11. Any driver or pit crew fighting will be disqualified and asked to leave the fairgrounds, forfeiting
any money or trophies. Should a driver be in a second fight at any other Central Kentucky
Demolition Derby Points series, then he will be disqualified from the points standings and money.
12. Last 2 cars in feature if stuck together will be pulled apart. Last hit wins – not last car running.
Official has final say.
13. Only driver and track officials allowed on track at any time.
14. You will have 2 minutes to make a hit or you will be disqualified.
15. No pin to win rule.
16. Winner of the heat may substitute another car in the feature if he or she can prove their car is
unable to compete.
17. Any protesting of a car must be done during the driver’s meeting and done by a driver that is
running in the derby.
18. Driver must pay before car is inspected. If car does not pass inspection, there will be no refunds.
You will be given 1 chance to make any changes to the car in order for it to pass inspection.
19. All drivers must be 18 years old or older. 16 & 17 year olds will be allowed with signed waiver
from legal guardian.
20. NOTE: Once cars are entered and entry fee paid, cars will be pulled to inspection area for
inspections and only the driver of car allowed in inspection area (beside track officials). Eric
Keller, who is head track official, will have the final say on all inspections, changes or questions
about cars. NO EXCEPTIONS. If car can not run in preliminary heat after passing inspection for
what ever reason, car will NOT be allowed to run in junk heat and there will be no refund of entry
fee.
21. NOTE: Driver must have car’s entry fee paid and in line to be inspected no later than 7:00 PM.
If a car wants to enter after 7:00 then they may pay and enter by 7:15 BUT an additional $25.00
will be added to entry fees. Anyone trying to enter after 7:15 will be turned away!
We will open inspections by 3:00 PM the afternoon of the derby so no excuses will be allowed for
late entry! The derby will start at 8:00 PM PROMPTLY.
22. We will be a part of a points series with other central Kentucky Derbies and will transfer all points
to the appropriate people after the derby is over along with $10.00 of the $50.00 entry fee per car.
Point series will end October 2012.
Any questions please call
Eric Keller
859-265-0489
Small Car Demolition Derby Rules
Allowed Rules
Any year, 4 or 6 cylinder. Wheel base is 108. If it is 108, it must be unibody.
Motor and rear end swaps are allowed. Engine mounts may be welded with no added steel.2 chains may be used for motor. 2003 and up, engine cradles (Ford cradles only) may be swapped but no excessive welding or no plating.
Tilt the front end with no added metal.
You can run solid suspension.
A arms may be welded with the strap 10” long, 3” wide x ¼. ONLY 2 PER SIDE!
Any year bumper allowed. You can weld bumper seams. Weld straight to frame. Bumper shocks no longer than 12”. You can reinforce FRONT BUMPERS ONLY . DEC bumpers are allowed.
You may run distributor protectors and hump plates. Plates no longer than 22” and no thicker than 1/4. Plates must conform to frame and be center of humps.
You may run 1 or the other:
(a)Distributor protector kicker –OR
(b) 2 kickers down behind a frame to dash bar 2x2 tubing.
You can not run both. If you run a distributor protector and 2 kickers down behind a frame, then no kicker behind the distributor protector.
You can wire bumper in 4 spots.
You can use up to 1” all thread in core support. Core support mount 3 x 3 x ¼ max!
You can wire or bolt hood in 6 spots with a max of 1” all thread, however we must be able to access engine in case of fires
You may plate a pre-ran car with 2 plates per bend with a max of 6 plate. 3 x 3” but no thicker than ¼ plate and we must be able to see where car was bent or broken. No plating on fresh car.
You can use up to 20 5/16 bolts around cut out of hood but no bolts in fender wells.
Gas tank protectors are allowed no wider than 30”. It can go back to the fire wall but DO NOT BEAT OR PUSH SHEET METAL BACK. No bolting to frame or sheet metal at rear. If it is a stock gas tank, it must be covered and secured. No movement!
You can run a transcooler but it must be mounted to where it does not strengthen the car.
You can run a back glass bar. Bar can not go more than 3” past rear glass seal and 3” past rain channels. Back bar no more than 3” wide and ½” thick. Only 1 bar allowed!
Four point cage allowed. Back bar no further back than 12” past driver’s seat. Side bars no further back than ½ way of the back door. NO HALO BARS! Front bar must be at least 5” from the firewall. Center bar will be allowed, but cannot extend past front or back of cage.
Roll over bar must be straight up and down. No slanting!
Doors and trunks can be wired or welded solid. No more than 1” overlapping with a max of 3” wide straps. Trunk must have a 12 x 12 hole in it. For inspection, we must be able to see all four corners.
Front windshield bar is allowed but can’t be behind the distributor protector.
You can weld frame a-arms forward top only ½” one pass.
You can run 2 batteries and an electric fan.
2 down legs from cage to frame. (front or back) Not in crush box or humps.
You may replace body bolts with 1” all thread. All thread must be inside frame with 1” gap between body and frame.
You may run slip shaft.
You can run rear end protector but it can not reinforce the car in anyway.
Pre-creasing is allowed.
No leaf spring conversions. If car came with leaf springs, then it must be OEM.
NOT ALLOWED
Gas pedal can’t be used as a kicker.
Bumper height can not be higher than 21” and no lower than 16” to the bottom of the bumper.
You can not run an engine fan or an electric fan unless it is covered by the hood.
No body seam welding.
No double skinning of any body panel. No chains, except 1 12 in. chain 3/8 in. thick per side from the head to the engine cradle.
Any additional welding, braising or bolting will disqualify car.
No wedging or cutdowns.
IF IT SAYS YOU CAN DO IT, DO IT! IF IT DON’T SAY IT, DON’T DO IT! RULES WILL BE STRICKLY ENFORCED!
SEE LARGE CAR RULES PAGE FOR THE COMPETITION RULES FOR THE HARRODSBURG’S DEMOLITION DERBIES.
Any questions contact:
Eric Keller
859-265-0489
Lawnmower Derby Rules
Mower must be a factory available lawnmower or garden mower. (No homemade frames)
No rear engine lawnmowers are allowed.
Engine must be factory lawnmower engine such as Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, Onan, or etc. (22 hp max)
All modification and frame reinforcing will be allowed. Front end of mower cannot be lower than 6 inches.
Transaxles must be factory available mower transaxles, but any reinforcing and/or welding of spider gears are permitted.
Engine bay reinforcing is permitted but must be contained inside hood and must maintain factory body lines. Front of mower can be 18 in. past the front. Motor also has to be covered.
All mowers must have the hood either screwed or welded down to dash panel around drivers’ area. It must have 8x8 hole just in case of a fire.
Mowers must have good brakes, forward, and reverse gears at the start of the heat.
Gas tank must be secured and have a cap on it. (If any gas at all is found leaking, you will be asked to shut it down) No rear gas tanks or any underneath seat.
Leg guards are mandatory and must be bolted and/or welded from rear fender to front of foot rest or frame.
A rear bumper is permitted, but is not allowed to extend more than 4 inches out and it must stay in between the tires. Also no spikes, no sharp edges or any protrusions allowed. (Bumper can be homemade with I/H beam or square tubing)
Re-gearing and changing of pulleys to increase speed is permitted and encouraged.
Any and all drive train modifications are permitted but must stay belt driven.
All mowers must use lawnmower type wheels. Tractor treads and cut tires will be permitted but no tire chains or dual wheels will be allowed.
Mower decks must be removed.
All headlights and any other glass and plastics must be removed before you enter the fairgrounds.
Batteries must be removed from mower and only used to jump start the mower before the heat begins. (If a pull start is used, drivers will not be permitted to restart engine during the heat.)
No front bumpers. You can build up the front of the frame and underneath the grill to hit with. The front of the mower must be smooth finish for safety.
Any rollovers will be disqualified. (If a driver touches the ground with a hand or foot, the driver is disqualified.)
For safety, if a mower rolls over, all drivers must stop and wait until that driver is upright and is off the track.
Please put your number on each side of the mower.
Mowers must have a kill switch. If an official shuts off your kill switch, we have an option to start it back up.
Everything must be inside the tires.
All ground rules will be gone over in a drivers meeting before the heat.
Entry fees are $30.00 per lawnmower, with $5.00 per car going to the points series. The rest will be 100 % pay back to participants.
All drivers pay admission to enter the grounds.
Please keep in mind when building your mower, safety first for you and the mower you are hitting!
Any questions call:
Eric Keller
265-0489