Post by LD50 on Feb 12, 2012 11:04:11 GMT -5
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Taurus/Sable Tips & Tricks
« Thread Started on Sept 4, 2011, 11:10am »
Place anything about a Ford Taurus or Mercury Sable in here. Yes they are basicly the same car..same subframe on both cars.
The ford taurus and sable are the same design from the years 1986-1995. After 1995 I know the taurus had fiberglass for part of the core support, with metal underneath it.
86-95 Front ends are very strong on these cars, trunks tend to plow very easy.
96+ Fronts need more work, but rearends seem to pack in better than previous years.
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Mitchell Giere #00
Youtubes LARGEST Demo Derby channel www.youtube.com/DemolitionMissions
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Re: Taurus/Sable Tips & Tricks
« Reply #1 on Sept 4, 2011, 11:21am »
There was a LOT of good info from the old wecrash site on building these cars. Not many of these cars seem to get built and ran at derbys, but they are worth the build. A few basic things that was from the old site:
-Yes, these cars can actually handle having a pointy bumper on the front of them. But it will bend quicker.
-No, do not run a rear bumper. These cars WILL plow if you run a bumper. The only way to run a bumper and not plow is if you prebend the rear a lot first.
-These cars come factory with solid plastic bumpers front and back, there is no metal backing behind them.
-The transmissions are known for having problems, shift easy and run a cooler if allowed.
-There will be a computer box on top of the radaitor core support in the middle. Unbolt this and move it to the firewall. If this box takes any hard hits the car will shut down.
-Just like any FWD car, run donut tires on the rear.
-The 3.0L engine is the better of the engines put inside these cars. These engines seem to handle heat pretty well.
-Try to keep the front axle cv shafts as straight as possible, the steeper the angle on them from tranny to wheel, the easier for them to break.
-There is an inertia switch in the trunk of these cars, on the drivers side by the speaker deck. If you run the stock wiring and fuel pump then cut both of those wires going to the inertia switch and wire them together. The inertia switch will turn itself off from 1 hit in a derby and your fuel pump shuts off. If you run your own fuel pump and wiring, then this switch means nothing to you.
Follow these basic tips when building a taurus/sable and it will hold up fairly well.
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Mitchell Giere #00
Youtubes LARGEST Demo Derby channel www.youtube.com/DemolitionMissions
DemolitionMission
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Re: Taurus/Sable Tips & Tricks
« Reply #2 on Sept 4, 2011, 11:24am »
This was my first compact build. It is a 1990 Ford Taurus with the only rust being body rust by the doors. It is a full weld derby car. With NO frame mods, 100% stock frame.
The entire build can also be followed online at my youtube channel from start to finish, including the derby video and in-car camera. www.youtube.com/DemolitionMissions
[image]
[image]
[image]
[image]
This thing was one heck of a clean car, even though it sat outside for most of its life.
[image]
[image]
I highly reccomend pulling the fenders off the front of this car. It makes it much easier to work on other parts of the car and if you dig around a bit you can find some nice spots to reinforce.
[image]
I moved the computer controls off the core support and bolted it to the firewall. I also added duct tape later to help hold the wires in place.
[image]
[image]
Tucked the trunk
[image]
[image]
[image]
[image]
Welded everything shut on this car
[image]
[image]
Roll over bar
[image]
Angle iron on core support
[image]
[image]
[image]
Built my own custom bumper for this car. Weighs 150 pounds. And this bumper worked just fine for this car. Don't be afraid to put a heavy duty bumper on these cars as long as you can mount them on solid.
[image]
[image]
Bolted hood, moved hood forward, and folded the front down for a shield.
[image]
[image]
Fully welded
[image]
[image]
[image]
Car finished. Has 13 inch rear wheels and doubled mud tires up front. Solid suspension welded for all 4 wheels.
[image]
[image]
[image]
After running the car. Got 4th out of 16.
I had the rear unibody notched and prebent. And without a bumper the trunk still tried to plow on the drivers side. But not too bad.
[image]
Front never moved on this car. I drove forwards most of the time. Frame is still fine.
[image]
The front pass side wheel got hit hard several times and the strut broke. The wheel still turned and steered fine, but was about to fall off after the derby.
[image]
[image]
[image]
The rear packed in good overall
[image]
[image]
The belt self-detonated somehow during the derby at the very end. Maybe something to do with the alternator cover hitting the hood and falling into belt?
[image]
[image]
[image]
[image]
The engine broke the mounts and even though it was chained to not bounce up. The engine still slid sideways and slammed into the side of the frame. A stock bolt on the frame stabbed into the transmission pan and drained all the fluid. Car still runs and drives fine.
I will be running this car again in 2012. I'm open to any ideas and changes to do for this cars next run.
« Last Edit: Sept 4, 2011, 1:05pm by DemolitionMission » Report to Mod - Link to Post - Back to Top IP: Logged
Mitchell Giere #00
Youtubes LARGEST Demo Derby channel www.youtube.com/DemolitionMissions
nanzpower36
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member is offline
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[send pm]
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member is offline
[avatar]
Bandit Motorsports
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Joined: Aug 2011
Gender: Male
Posts: 131
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Karma: 0
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Taurus/Sable Tips & Tricks
« Thread Started on Sept 4, 2011, 11:10am »
Place anything about a Ford Taurus or Mercury Sable in here. Yes they are basicly the same car..same subframe on both cars.
The ford taurus and sable are the same design from the years 1986-1995. After 1995 I know the taurus had fiberglass for part of the core support, with metal underneath it.
86-95 Front ends are very strong on these cars, trunks tend to plow very easy.
96+ Fronts need more work, but rearends seem to pack in better than previous years.
Report to Mod - Link to Post - Back to Top IP: Logged
Mitchell Giere #00
Youtubes LARGEST Demo Derby channel www.youtube.com/DemolitionMissions
DemolitionMission
Future Icon
*
member is offline
[avatar]
Bandit Motorsports
[homepage] [send pm]
Joined: Aug 2011
Gender: Male
Posts: 131
Location: IN/OH
Karma: 0
[ Exalt | Smite ]
Re: Taurus/Sable Tips & Tricks
« Reply #1 on Sept 4, 2011, 11:21am »
There was a LOT of good info from the old wecrash site on building these cars. Not many of these cars seem to get built and ran at derbys, but they are worth the build. A few basic things that was from the old site:
-Yes, these cars can actually handle having a pointy bumper on the front of them. But it will bend quicker.
-No, do not run a rear bumper. These cars WILL plow if you run a bumper. The only way to run a bumper and not plow is if you prebend the rear a lot first.
-These cars come factory with solid plastic bumpers front and back, there is no metal backing behind them.
-The transmissions are known for having problems, shift easy and run a cooler if allowed.
-There will be a computer box on top of the radaitor core support in the middle. Unbolt this and move it to the firewall. If this box takes any hard hits the car will shut down.
-Just like any FWD car, run donut tires on the rear.
-The 3.0L engine is the better of the engines put inside these cars. These engines seem to handle heat pretty well.
-Try to keep the front axle cv shafts as straight as possible, the steeper the angle on them from tranny to wheel, the easier for them to break.
-There is an inertia switch in the trunk of these cars, on the drivers side by the speaker deck. If you run the stock wiring and fuel pump then cut both of those wires going to the inertia switch and wire them together. The inertia switch will turn itself off from 1 hit in a derby and your fuel pump shuts off. If you run your own fuel pump and wiring, then this switch means nothing to you.
Follow these basic tips when building a taurus/sable and it will hold up fairly well.
Report to Mod - Link to Post - Back to Top IP: Logged
Mitchell Giere #00
Youtubes LARGEST Demo Derby channel www.youtube.com/DemolitionMissions
DemolitionMission
Future Icon
*
member is offline
[avatar]
Bandit Motorsports
[homepage] [send pm]
Joined: Aug 2011
Gender: Male
Posts: 131
Location: IN/OH
Karma: 0
[ Exalt | Smite ]
Re: Taurus/Sable Tips & Tricks
« Reply #2 on Sept 4, 2011, 11:24am »
This was my first compact build. It is a 1990 Ford Taurus with the only rust being body rust by the doors. It is a full weld derby car. With NO frame mods, 100% stock frame.
The entire build can also be followed online at my youtube channel from start to finish, including the derby video and in-car camera. www.youtube.com/DemolitionMissions
[image]
[image]
[image]
[image]
This thing was one heck of a clean car, even though it sat outside for most of its life.
[image]
[image]
I highly reccomend pulling the fenders off the front of this car. It makes it much easier to work on other parts of the car and if you dig around a bit you can find some nice spots to reinforce.
[image]
I moved the computer controls off the core support and bolted it to the firewall. I also added duct tape later to help hold the wires in place.
[image]
[image]
Tucked the trunk
[image]
[image]
[image]
[image]
Welded everything shut on this car
[image]
[image]
Roll over bar
[image]
Angle iron on core support
[image]
[image]
[image]
Built my own custom bumper for this car. Weighs 150 pounds. And this bumper worked just fine for this car. Don't be afraid to put a heavy duty bumper on these cars as long as you can mount them on solid.
[image]
[image]
Bolted hood, moved hood forward, and folded the front down for a shield.
[image]
[image]
Fully welded
[image]
[image]
[image]
Car finished. Has 13 inch rear wheels and doubled mud tires up front. Solid suspension welded for all 4 wheels.
[image]
[image]
[image]
After running the car. Got 4th out of 16.
I had the rear unibody notched and prebent. And without a bumper the trunk still tried to plow on the drivers side. But not too bad.
[image]
Front never moved on this car. I drove forwards most of the time. Frame is still fine.
[image]
The front pass side wheel got hit hard several times and the strut broke. The wheel still turned and steered fine, but was about to fall off after the derby.
[image]
[image]
[image]
The rear packed in good overall
[image]
[image]
The belt self-detonated somehow during the derby at the very end. Maybe something to do with the alternator cover hitting the hood and falling into belt?
[image]
[image]
[image]
[image]
The engine broke the mounts and even though it was chained to not bounce up. The engine still slid sideways and slammed into the side of the frame. A stock bolt on the frame stabbed into the transmission pan and drained all the fluid. Car still runs and drives fine.
I will be running this car again in 2012. I'm open to any ideas and changes to do for this cars next run.
« Last Edit: Sept 4, 2011, 1:05pm by DemolitionMission » Report to Mod - Link to Post - Back to Top IP: Logged
Mitchell Giere #00
Youtubes LARGEST Demo Derby channel www.youtube.com/DemolitionMissions
nanzpower36
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