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Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Thread Started on Sept 7, 2011, 10:44pm »
Let's get 'em rollin'
Got a '91 Sunbird 2 door mostly built....my first Cavi build.
a '98 2 door Cavi to build in the near future
a '94 4 door Cavi and a 4 door 80's Firenza in the not-so-near future
and an '04 4 door Cavi in the more distant future
« Last Edit: Sept 7, 2011, 10:48pm by C4 » Report to Mod - Link to Post - Back to Top IP: Logged
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #1 on Sept 8, 2011, 6:01am »
Ive got a 1990 Sunbird 4dr with the 2.0L TBI, absoluetly rust free! only 80,000 original km's. Would love some tips and some advice, never built one of these before. Here are some of the rules we run:
"All rubber stock body mounts and stock size bolts must stay in place. Increasing bolt size is not allowed. Max flat washer size – 3”. Four (4) additional body mounts up to ¾” inch threaded rod are allowed, placed strategically where desired or replace existing body mounts. Two threaded rods are allowed for the rad cradle that is not included in the additional 4.Two additional stock sized bolts may be added inside driver’s compartment for safety. Threaded not must not extend to bottom of frames."
"Trunk/tailgate maybe welded solid. If trunk is welded closed a 15” square hole must be cut in center of trunk for officials’ inspection. Trunks/tailgates can be wired, strapped or chained in 4 places to rear bumper. Maximum of 2 spots with threaded rod maximum of ¾ inch holding the trunk shut. Max washer size 4X4 for threaded rod. NO welding trunk/tailgate to bumper what so ever."
"Hoods are not mandatory. Without hood – use electric fan only – fans directly connected to motor must be removed. A 12” opening must be cut in the center of the hood. Hoods must remain open for officials’ inspection. Hood must be fastened down in maximum of 8 places including threaded rod or with seat belt strapping, wire, chain only, or bolted to fender. Hood latch should be removed. No welding hoods closed. Hoods/rad support can be wired to bumper in 4 places. Maximum of 2 spots with threaded rod maximum of ¾ inch holding the hood shut. These spots will account for 2 of the 8 spots. No limit on 3/8 bolts in hood panel only."
"Suspension must remain stock, movement must occur. Broken or sagging parts may be replaced. It is recommended that rear coil be wired to differential. No spring blocks or added helpers. Gears may be welded. Steering columns, drive shafts and rear sway arms may be altered but not reinforced. Ball joints, control arms and steering linkage must remain stock. NO REINFORCING ALLOWED. Trailing No coil spring cars converted to leafs springs. Parts may be interchanged with stock style car parts-TIE RODS maybe reinforced with angle iron square tubing or be welded."
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #20 on Sept 13, 2011, 5:13pm »
Sept 12, 2011, 8:43pm, STROMI 121 wrote:
Sept 9, 2011, 5:33pm, scottiem50 wrote:
the bubble cavis are totally worth building just gotta stiffin the fronts if u look underneath u can get pretty creative on the subs and they almost always only move side to side bout 8 in behind the bumper and it really doesnt hurt the radiator or anything else ill have before and after pics in a lil while got a 97 im running for the third time on the 24
They sway worse than a drunk man.
You mean like this? Stay out of 2nd gear
I wish I had this hit on video, hurt a little. This was a bone stock build, trying a 2 door bubble cavy next year.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #21 on Sept 13, 2011, 5:38pm »
Dang, they wouldn't even let ya move the battery? At least you put it in a box. Did the axle come apart on that one? We do have a couple tracks around here that will allow for second gear. Was hitting 3rd gear on one of them one year. Looking at the background, I gotta ask if you were running on pavement or dirt? And is your right front tire flat in that picture, or is the right corner pushed down that far?
Both our bubbles are 2.2...one is auto, one is 5 speed.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #22 on Sept 13, 2011, 6:05pm »
That dont happen if you run pipe all the way back to the strut I love the bubble cavis the two doors can beat and beat with the butt
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #23 on Sept 13, 2011, 8:10pm »
If that isnt a flat tire i am scrapping my 97, or selling it to a roundy round guy, especialy if that is the stock bumper that is still straight
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #24 on Sept 13, 2011, 8:24pm »
Sept 13, 2011, 6:05pm, betonblack wrote:
That dont happen if you run pipe all the way back to the strut
Unfortunately, that won't slide here.
Perhaps some well placed all thread might help a little??
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #25 on Sept 13, 2011, 8:37pm »
Sept 13, 2011, 8:24pm, C4 wrote:
Sept 13, 2011, 6:05pm, betonblack wrote:
That dont happen if you run pipe all the way back to the strut
Unfortunately, that won't slide here.
Perhaps some well placed all thread might help a little??
Can you hardnose a better bumper?
« Last Edit: Sept 13, 2011, 8:45pm by C4 » Report to Mod - Link to Post - Back to Top IP: Logged
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #26 on Sept 13, 2011, 8:49pm »
I can swap a better bumper and weld bumper to bracket & bracket to frame, but not bumper straight to frame.
I can use homemade brackets within reason.....no better than any automotive bracket.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #27 on Sept 14, 2011, 1:19pm »
Use some box vic shocks welded all the way around the box then weld the bumper to them. Drill some holes if nescessary and weld the shock tubes to the frame as well. Shortening the end of the frame some might help some too. If the bumper does not move it will help the sway problem some....JMO
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #28 on Sept 20, 2011, 9:04am »
So I got my car 3/4 of the way built right now, tucked the trunk and welded it shut, removed all the un-wanted wires going to the back which is all of them lol. I removed all the plastic bumpers, and exposed the metal bumpers behind them. The back bumper looks stronger than the front? has anyone had any luck swapping front/rear bumpers on the these cars? its a 1990 sunbird.
The front looks good and Strong on these, going to drill a hole through the frame and place 3/4" threaded rod all the way through from the bottom of the frame right through the hood and bolt it all together. I have also shifted the hood forward, and bent it down over as a rad protector. Just wish I had some 9wire to loop from the bumper to rad cradle, I think that might help. If anyone has any more suggestions please offer 'em up. Thanks!
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #29 on Sept 20, 2011, 2:08pm »
Sunbirds are good cars with a front bumper swap.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #30 on Sept 20, 2011, 2:47pm »
Sept 20, 2011, 2:08pm, STROMI 121 wrote:
Sunbirds are good cars with a front bumper swap.
So would you reccomend to swap the rear bumper to the front, and just run without a rear bumper on these then to help it pack in better?
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #31 on Sept 21, 2011, 6:10am »
I didnt run a back bumper on mine I tucked the rear and prebent it up a little that's all u need to do
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #32 on Sept 21, 2011, 9:53pm »
Tuck, notch or pre bend and mount the bumper on the top of the frame by moving the bottom bolt holes to the top holes. It will roll right in and the bumper will hold the rails together for a few more hits.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #33 on Sept 21, 2011, 9:54pm »
Id run as good of a front bumper as my rules allowed.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #34 on Sept 22, 2011, 6:44am »
Sept 21, 2011, 9:53pm, STROMI 121 wrote:
Tuck, notch or pre bend and mount the bumper on the top of the frame by moving the bottom bolt holes to the top holes. It will roll right in and the bumper will hold the rails together for a few more hits.
Thanks A lot guys, I will be taking pics and posting them on here to help others out as well. Derby is this Sunday, and shes not done yet. But she will be, and hopefully she stays runnging and strong! Cant wait!
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #35 on Sept 23, 2011, 6:20pm »
Good luck miskis. I will see you at the Fall Brawl in Lindsay if you are running!
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #36 on Sept 25, 2011, 2:57pm »
Pre-Ran 1994 Sunbird, building it for my hometown demo Thanksgiving Weekend. Going to put some more threaded rod through the hood and get the butt end to start rolling up just before the tuck in the trunk with some help of a big loader
Halo bar will be installed as well.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #37 on Sept 27, 2011, 11:54am »
Sept 23, 2011, 6:20pm, Smash-Car-Racing wrote:
Good luck miskis. I will see you at the Fall Brawl in Lindsay if you are running!
Unless I find another one between now and then, I wont be running at the fall brawl. The car was finished off in 1 heat, thats what happens when you go up against a volvo.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #38 on Sept 27, 2011, 4:31pm »
Well, our '91 got ran on Saturday. Lost an outer CV within the first 2 minutes.
I found out that '76 Pontiac Sunbird bumper shocks are not very good. Neither is an '88 Cadillac Fleetwood bumper. The shock tube ripped....in the middle, not by the welds & the bumper folded.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #39 on Sept 27, 2011, 9:48pm »
Sept 27, 2011, 4:31pm, C4 wrote:
Well, our '91 got ran on Saturday. Lost an outer CV within the first 2 minutes.
I found out that '76 Pontiac Sunbird bumper shocks are not very good. Neither is an '88 Cadillac Fleetwood bumper. The shock tube ripped....in the middle, not by the welds & the bumper folded.
That makes for a short night.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #40 on Sept 27, 2011, 11:23pm »
Yes, indeed. Funny part is...my wife was driving it...my boy was the one to take her out. We don't get accused of the family gang-bang very often. We are there to break sh!t.
On the plus side, it will be easy fixes, and the car is still almost fresh for the daughter to fix up for the clean up derby in a couple weeks.
With the 3.1, it isn't very roomy under the hood. The fan is going to have to go. How well do the 3.1's handle heat??? It will be a one & done, 15-20 minutes, tops...probably closer to 5-10. I wouldn't anticipate more than 8-10 compacts at this.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #41 on Sept 28, 2011, 9:29am »
3.1 will handle some heat as long as it does not go into limp mode. You will need to convince rthe computer it is operating temperature even when it is hot.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #42 on Sept 28, 2011, 10:29am »
Dang. I didn't think '91 would be new enough for limp mode. Have you had a chance to test your theory on bypassing this, yet?
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #43 on Sept 28, 2011, 11:17am »
First Picture of the aftermath for my 1990 Sunbird
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #44 on Sept 28, 2011, 11:18am »
2nd
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #45 on Sept 28, 2011, 11:19am »
3rd
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #46 on Sept 28, 2011, 11:19am »
last
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #47 on Sept 28, 2011, 11:22am »
I dont think its got limp mode, when its too hot it just wont move, i dont think the injectors and coil packs like getting too warm, but it should last 15 minutes without a fan.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #48 on Sept 28, 2011, 12:01pm »
Sept 28, 2011, 10:29am, C4 wrote:
Dang. I didn't think '91 would be new enough for limp mode. Have you had a chance to test your theory on bypassing this, yet?
On the last 3.1 Lumina that I ran, I just unplugged the temp sending unit. I went into rich mode and the electric fan stayed running all the time. However it ran and performed just fine.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #49 on Sept 28, 2011, 12:41pm »
I'll try that. Thanks.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #50 on Sept 30, 2011, 11:15pm »
GM coil packs do not like the heat...could be just in my experience though
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #51 on Oct 1, 2011, 12:07am »
3.1 handle heat very well. 3100 do not! (in my experience)
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #52 on Oct 2, 2011, 10:48am »
ran my 93' cavy again last night. got 4th outta 17.. they made me get out because the floor fell out on the drivers side. my drivers seat was draggin on the ground. front frame rail went down also. but will easily be fixed. but it didnt stall out once on me. Radiator fan quit workin through some hits and lid went flyin off the engine coolant, blowin steam everywhere. woulda won the derby if they were to let me keep goin. i drove my car off the track and onto the trailer. will be ran one more time to finish it off.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #53 on Oct 2, 2011, 1:13pm »
This '91 we put on the track the other day is our 2nd fwd GM...first one was a GrandAm clone from Olds. Both had the same problem. One hit to a front wheel....not even that big a hit....and it is suffering from major toe-in issues. Struts and tie rods appear to be intact. What causes this? How is it fixed or prevented?
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #54 on Oct 2, 2011, 4:14pm »
When the right tire is sitting straight, the left one sits like this...........
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And it don't turn left for sh!t.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #55 on Oct 2, 2011, 6:55pm »
Cut the rubber boot off and figured out the strut shaft is indeed bent, affecting which way the hub points.
Guess that's the down side to having the tie rods at the top of the strut instead of down on the spindle.
Not sure where this sudden hankering to put together fwd's has come from. Just hate to let a good running car sit for too long.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #56 on Oct 16, 2011, 2:48pm »
Learn from my mistake.
On the 3.1 we did not get the shorter version of the oil filter. Last night, the Daughter went about 30 mph head on with a Pinto. That hit got her the Mad Dog award for the night, but she cleared him & went up on him. It punched a hole in the long oil filter. the 3.1 is now roasted.....locked up tight.
Now i have a perfectly good car that needs an engine.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #57 on Oct 16, 2011, 3:32pm »
88 beretta with 2.8 has got a real small oil filter it will work on the 3.1
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #58 on Oct 16, 2011, 3:41pm »
Oct 2, 2011, 6:55pm, C4 wrote:
Cut the rubber boot off and figured out the strut shaft is indeed bent, affecting which way the hub points.
Guess that's the down side to having the tie rods at the top of the strut instead of down on the spindle.
.
Upside is i have never had a tie rod end or tierod break, only bend on these cars stock or otherwise.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #59 on Nov 6, 2011, 5:46pm »
Sept 9, 2011, 5:33pm, scottiem50 wrote:
the bubble cavis are totally worth building just gotta stiffin the fronts if u look underneath u can get pretty creative on the subs and they almost always only move side to side bout 8 in behind the bumper and it really doesnt hurt the radiator or anything else ill have before and after pics in a lil while got a 97 im running for the third time on the 24
How about those pics?
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #60 on Nov 6, 2011, 8:45pm »
Nov 6, 2011, 5:46pm, C4 wrote:
Sept 9, 2011, 5:33pm, scottiem50 wrote:
the bubble cavis are totally worth building just gotta stiffin the fronts if u look underneath u can get pretty creative on the subs and they almost always only move side to side bout 8 in behind the bumper and it really doesnt hurt the radiator or anything else ill have before and after pics in a lil while got a 97 im running for the third time on the 24
How about those pics?
Sway control?
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #61 on Nov 6, 2011, 11:02pm »
^^^^^Just curious on the aftermath. Wish I had paid closer attention to the "Cavi Pics" thread on the old site...there were plenty of bubbles in it.
The whole limp mode thing has me more concerned than anything else. We stuck a battery in the '98 today & took it for a test spin. Ran great and pretty peppy with the 5 speed, too. Supposedly, it overheats, but we ran it for about 10 minutes & the gauge barely came off of cold. All that with a flat on the right front.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #62 on Nov 7, 2011, 8:11pm »
My 99 stock cavy went into limp mode 10 minutes after the radiator broke and it was hard to move around after it came on. I just ran a 2000 impala and I installed a new temp sensor zip tied to the outside of the intake and it seemed to do fine. It was reading underhood temps...lol
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #63 on Nov 7, 2011, 9:57pm »
Sounds like a winner...thx
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #64 on Dec 20, 2011, 2:37am »
Where are the spider gears on the bubble cavs? And for the 1988 thru 94 cavs as well? Are they under the tranny pan? Or do u have to pull the passanger side axle out?
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #65 on Dec 21, 2011, 6:32am »
Dec 20, 2011, 2:37am, Cory wrote:
Where are the spider gears on the bubble cavs? And for the 1988 thru 94 cavs as well? Are they under the tranny pan? Or do u have to pull the passanger side axle out?
Idk about the bubble cavys but i just ruined the casing on an older tranny yesterday trying to get to the spider gears, the whole tranny has to come apart.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #66 on Dec 22, 2011, 3:14am »
Oh wow, I didn't think they were that hard to get to thanks
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Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Thread Started on Sept 7, 2011, 10:44pm »
Let's get 'em rollin'
Got a '91 Sunbird 2 door mostly built....my first Cavi build.
a '98 2 door Cavi to build in the near future
a '94 4 door Cavi and a 4 door 80's Firenza in the not-so-near future
and an '04 4 door Cavi in the more distant future
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #1 on Sept 8, 2011, 6:01am »
Ive got a 1990 Sunbird 4dr with the 2.0L TBI, absoluetly rust free! only 80,000 original km's. Would love some tips and some advice, never built one of these before. Here are some of the rules we run:
"All rubber stock body mounts and stock size bolts must stay in place. Increasing bolt size is not allowed. Max flat washer size – 3”. Four (4) additional body mounts up to ¾” inch threaded rod are allowed, placed strategically where desired or replace existing body mounts. Two threaded rods are allowed for the rad cradle that is not included in the additional 4.Two additional stock sized bolts may be added inside driver’s compartment for safety. Threaded not must not extend to bottom of frames."
"Trunk/tailgate maybe welded solid. If trunk is welded closed a 15” square hole must be cut in center of trunk for officials’ inspection. Trunks/tailgates can be wired, strapped or chained in 4 places to rear bumper. Maximum of 2 spots with threaded rod maximum of ¾ inch holding the trunk shut. Max washer size 4X4 for threaded rod. NO welding trunk/tailgate to bumper what so ever."
"Hoods are not mandatory. Without hood – use electric fan only – fans directly connected to motor must be removed. A 12” opening must be cut in the center of the hood. Hoods must remain open for officials’ inspection. Hood must be fastened down in maximum of 8 places including threaded rod or with seat belt strapping, wire, chain only, or bolted to fender. Hood latch should be removed. No welding hoods closed. Hoods/rad support can be wired to bumper in 4 places. Maximum of 2 spots with threaded rod maximum of ¾ inch holding the hood shut. These spots will account for 2 of the 8 spots. No limit on 3/8 bolts in hood panel only."
"Suspension must remain stock, movement must occur. Broken or sagging parts may be replaced. It is recommended that rear coil be wired to differential. No spring blocks or added helpers. Gears may be welded. Steering columns, drive shafts and rear sway arms may be altered but not reinforced. Ball joints, control arms and steering linkage must remain stock. NO REINFORCING ALLOWED. Trailing No coil spring cars converted to leafs springs. Parts may be interchanged with stock style car parts-TIE RODS maybe reinforced with angle iron square tubing or be welded."
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Holley blue pump
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #20 on Sept 13, 2011, 5:13pm »
Sept 12, 2011, 8:43pm, STROMI 121 wrote:
Sept 9, 2011, 5:33pm, scottiem50 wrote:
the bubble cavis are totally worth building just gotta stiffin the fronts if u look underneath u can get pretty creative on the subs and they almost always only move side to side bout 8 in behind the bumper and it really doesnt hurt the radiator or anything else ill have before and after pics in a lil while got a 97 im running for the third time on the 24
They sway worse than a drunk man.
You mean like this? Stay out of 2nd gear
I wish I had this hit on video, hurt a little. This was a bone stock build, trying a 2 door bubble cavy next year.[image]
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #21 on Sept 13, 2011, 5:38pm »
Dang, they wouldn't even let ya move the battery? At least you put it in a box. Did the axle come apart on that one? We do have a couple tracks around here that will allow for second gear. Was hitting 3rd gear on one of them one year. Looking at the background, I gotta ask if you were running on pavement or dirt? And is your right front tire flat in that picture, or is the right corner pushed down that far?
Both our bubbles are 2.2...one is auto, one is 5 speed.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #22 on Sept 13, 2011, 6:05pm »
That dont happen if you run pipe all the way back to the strut
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #23 on Sept 13, 2011, 8:10pm »
If that isnt a flat tire i am scrapping my 97, or selling it to a roundy round guy, especialy if that is the stock bumper that is still straight
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #24 on Sept 13, 2011, 8:24pm »
Sept 13, 2011, 6:05pm, betonblack wrote:
That dont happen if you run pipe all the way back to the strut
Unfortunately, that won't slide here.
Perhaps some well placed all thread might help a little??
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #25 on Sept 13, 2011, 8:37pm »
Sept 13, 2011, 8:24pm, C4 wrote:
Sept 13, 2011, 6:05pm, betonblack wrote:
That dont happen if you run pipe all the way back to the strut
Unfortunately, that won't slide here.
Perhaps some well placed all thread might help a little??
Can you hardnose a better bumper?
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #26 on Sept 13, 2011, 8:49pm »
I can swap a better bumper and weld bumper to bracket & bracket to frame, but not bumper straight to frame.
I can use homemade brackets within reason.....no better than any automotive bracket.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #27 on Sept 14, 2011, 1:19pm »
Use some box vic shocks welded all the way around the box then weld the bumper to them. Drill some holes if nescessary and weld the shock tubes to the frame as well. Shortening the end of the frame some might help some too. If the bumper does not move it will help the sway problem some....JMO
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #28 on Sept 20, 2011, 9:04am »
So I got my car 3/4 of the way built right now, tucked the trunk and welded it shut, removed all the un-wanted wires going to the back which is all of them lol. I removed all the plastic bumpers, and exposed the metal bumpers behind them. The back bumper looks stronger than the front? has anyone had any luck swapping front/rear bumpers on the these cars? its a 1990 sunbird.
The front looks good and Strong on these, going to drill a hole through the frame and place 3/4" threaded rod all the way through from the bottom of the frame right through the hood and bolt it all together. I have also shifted the hood forward, and bent it down over as a rad protector. Just wish I had some 9wire to loop from the bumper to rad cradle, I think that might help. If anyone has any more suggestions please offer 'em up. Thanks!
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #29 on Sept 20, 2011, 2:08pm »
Sunbirds are good cars with a front bumper swap.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #30 on Sept 20, 2011, 2:47pm »
Sept 20, 2011, 2:08pm, STROMI 121 wrote:
Sunbirds are good cars with a front bumper swap.
So would you reccomend to swap the rear bumper to the front, and just run without a rear bumper on these then to help it pack in better?
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #31 on Sept 21, 2011, 6:10am »
I didnt run a back bumper on mine I tucked the rear and prebent it up a little that's all u need to do
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #32 on Sept 21, 2011, 9:53pm »
Tuck, notch or pre bend and mount the bumper on the top of the frame by moving the bottom bolt holes to the top holes. It will roll right in and the bumper will hold the rails together for a few more hits.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #33 on Sept 21, 2011, 9:54pm »
Id run as good of a front bumper as my rules allowed.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #34 on Sept 22, 2011, 6:44am »
Sept 21, 2011, 9:53pm, STROMI 121 wrote:
Tuck, notch or pre bend and mount the bumper on the top of the frame by moving the bottom bolt holes to the top holes. It will roll right in and the bumper will hold the rails together for a few more hits.
Thanks A lot guys, I will be taking pics and posting them on here to help others out as well. Derby is this Sunday, and shes not done yet. But she will be, and hopefully she stays runnging and strong! Cant wait!
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #35 on Sept 23, 2011, 6:20pm »
Good luck miskis. I will see you at the Fall Brawl in Lindsay if you are running!
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #36 on Sept 25, 2011, 2:57pm »
Pre-Ran 1994 Sunbird, building it for my hometown demo Thanksgiving Weekend. Going to put some more threaded rod through the hood and get the butt end to start rolling up just before the tuck in the trunk with some help of a big loader
Halo bar will be installed as well.[image]
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #37 on Sept 27, 2011, 11:54am »
Sept 23, 2011, 6:20pm, Smash-Car-Racing wrote:
Good luck miskis. I will see you at the Fall Brawl in Lindsay if you are running!
Unless I find another one between now and then, I wont be running at the fall brawl. The car was finished off in 1 heat, thats what happens when you go up against a volvo.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #38 on Sept 27, 2011, 4:31pm »
Well, our '91 got ran on Saturday. Lost an outer CV within the first 2 minutes.
I found out that '76 Pontiac Sunbird bumper shocks are not very good. Neither is an '88 Cadillac Fleetwood bumper. The shock tube ripped....in the middle, not by the welds & the bumper folded.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #39 on Sept 27, 2011, 9:48pm »
Sept 27, 2011, 4:31pm, C4 wrote:
Well, our '91 got ran on Saturday. Lost an outer CV within the first 2 minutes.
I found out that '76 Pontiac Sunbird bumper shocks are not very good. Neither is an '88 Cadillac Fleetwood bumper. The shock tube ripped....in the middle, not by the welds & the bumper folded.
That makes for a short night.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #40 on Sept 27, 2011, 11:23pm »
Yes, indeed. Funny part is...my wife was driving it...my boy was the one to take her out. We don't get accused of the family gang-bang very often. We are there to break sh!t.
On the plus side, it will be easy fixes, and the car is still almost fresh for the daughter to fix up for the clean up derby in a couple weeks.
With the 3.1, it isn't very roomy under the hood. The fan is going to have to go. How well do the 3.1's handle heat??? It will be a one & done, 15-20 minutes, tops...probably closer to 5-10. I wouldn't anticipate more than 8-10 compacts at this.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #41 on Sept 28, 2011, 9:29am »
3.1 will handle some heat as long as it does not go into limp mode. You will need to convince rthe computer it is operating temperature even when it is hot.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #42 on Sept 28, 2011, 10:29am »
Dang. I didn't think '91 would be new enough for limp mode. Have you had a chance to test your theory on bypassing this, yet?
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #43 on Sept 28, 2011, 11:17am »
First Picture of the aftermath for my 1990 Sunbird
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #44 on Sept 28, 2011, 11:18am »
2nd
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #45 on Sept 28, 2011, 11:19am »
3rd
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #46 on Sept 28, 2011, 11:19am »
last
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #47 on Sept 28, 2011, 11:22am »
I dont think its got limp mode, when its too hot it just wont move, i dont think the injectors and coil packs like getting too warm, but it should last 15 minutes without a fan.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #48 on Sept 28, 2011, 12:01pm »
Sept 28, 2011, 10:29am, C4 wrote:
Dang. I didn't think '91 would be new enough for limp mode. Have you had a chance to test your theory on bypassing this, yet?
On the last 3.1 Lumina that I ran, I just unplugged the temp sending unit. I went into rich mode and the electric fan stayed running all the time. However it ran and performed just fine.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #49 on Sept 28, 2011, 12:41pm »
I'll try that. Thanks.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #50 on Sept 30, 2011, 11:15pm »
GM coil packs do not like the heat...could be just in my experience though
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #51 on Oct 1, 2011, 12:07am »
3.1 handle heat very well. 3100 do not! (in my experience)
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #52 on Oct 2, 2011, 10:48am »
ran my 93' cavy again last night. got 4th outta 17.. they made me get out because the floor fell out on the drivers side. my drivers seat was draggin on the ground. front frame rail went down also. but will easily be fixed. but it didnt stall out once on me. Radiator fan quit workin through some hits and lid went flyin off the engine coolant, blowin steam everywhere. woulda won the derby if they were to let me keep goin. i drove my car off the track and onto the trailer. will be ran one more time to finish it off.
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<a href="http://s561.photobucket.com/albums/ss58/InsaneRacing691/the%20cavy/?action=view¤t=IMG_2012.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss58/InsaneRacing691/the%20cavy/IMG_2012.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #53 on Oct 2, 2011, 1:13pm »
This '91 we put on the track the other day is our 2nd fwd GM...first one was a GrandAm clone from Olds. Both had the same problem. One hit to a front wheel....not even that big a hit....and it is suffering from major toe-in issues. Struts and tie rods appear to be intact. What causes this? How is it fixed or prevented?
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #54 on Oct 2, 2011, 4:14pm »
When the right tire is sitting straight, the left one sits like this...........
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And it don't turn left for sh!t.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #55 on Oct 2, 2011, 6:55pm »
Cut the rubber boot off and figured out the strut shaft is indeed bent, affecting which way the hub points.
Guess that's the down side to having the tie rods at the top of the strut instead of down on the spindle.
Not sure where this sudden hankering to put together fwd's has come from. Just hate to let a good running car sit for too long.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #56 on Oct 16, 2011, 2:48pm »
Learn from my mistake.
On the 3.1 we did not get the shorter version of the oil filter. Last night, the Daughter went about 30 mph head on with a Pinto. That hit got her the Mad Dog award for the night, but she cleared him & went up on him. It punched a hole in the long oil filter. the 3.1 is now roasted.....locked up tight.
Now i have a perfectly good car that needs an engine.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #57 on Oct 16, 2011, 3:32pm »
88 beretta with 2.8 has got a real small oil filter it will work on the 3.1
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #58 on Oct 16, 2011, 3:41pm »
Oct 2, 2011, 6:55pm, C4 wrote:
Cut the rubber boot off and figured out the strut shaft is indeed bent, affecting which way the hub points.
Guess that's the down side to having the tie rods at the top of the strut instead of down on the spindle.
.
Upside is i have never had a tie rod end or tierod break, only bend on these cars stock or otherwise.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #59 on Nov 6, 2011, 5:46pm »
Sept 9, 2011, 5:33pm, scottiem50 wrote:
the bubble cavis are totally worth building just gotta stiffin the fronts if u look underneath u can get pretty creative on the subs and they almost always only move side to side bout 8 in behind the bumper and it really doesnt hurt the radiator or anything else ill have before and after pics in a lil while got a 97 im running for the third time on the 24
How about those pics?
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #60 on Nov 6, 2011, 8:45pm »
Nov 6, 2011, 5:46pm, C4 wrote:
Sept 9, 2011, 5:33pm, scottiem50 wrote:
the bubble cavis are totally worth building just gotta stiffin the fronts if u look underneath u can get pretty creative on the subs and they almost always only move side to side bout 8 in behind the bumper and it really doesnt hurt the radiator or anything else ill have before and after pics in a lil while got a 97 im running for the third time on the 24
How about those pics?
Sway control?
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #61 on Nov 6, 2011, 11:02pm »
^^^^^Just curious on the aftermath. Wish I had paid closer attention to the "Cavi Pics" thread on the old site...there were plenty of bubbles in it.
The whole limp mode thing has me more concerned than anything else. We stuck a battery in the '98 today & took it for a test spin. Ran great and pretty peppy with the 5 speed, too. Supposedly, it overheats, but we ran it for about 10 minutes & the gauge barely came off of cold. All that with a flat on the right front.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #62 on Nov 7, 2011, 8:11pm »
My 99 stock cavy went into limp mode 10 minutes after the radiator broke and it was hard to move around after it came on. I just ran a 2000 impala and I installed a new temp sensor zip tied to the outside of the intake and it seemed to do fine. It was reading underhood temps...lol
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #63 on Nov 7, 2011, 9:57pm »
Sounds like a winner...thx
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #64 on Dec 20, 2011, 2:37am »
Where are the spider gears on the bubble cavs? And for the 1988 thru 94 cavs as well? Are they under the tranny pan? Or do u have to pull the passanger side axle out?
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #65 on Dec 21, 2011, 6:32am »
Dec 20, 2011, 2:37am, Cory wrote:
Where are the spider gears on the bubble cavs? And for the 1988 thru 94 cavs as well? Are they under the tranny pan? Or do u have to pull the passanger side axle out?
Idk about the bubble cavys but i just ruined the casing on an older tranny yesterday trying to get to the spider gears, the whole tranny has to come apart.
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Re: Cavalier, etc. TIPS
« Reply #66 on Dec 22, 2011, 3:14am »
Oh wow, I didn't think they were that hard to get to thanks
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