Freeborn Co.Fair Derby (Albert Lea,MN) 4:00pm

[newport131]

Sunday Aug. 5th 2012 start time is 4:00
Fullsize

1. 1500.00 & Trophy

2. 1000.00 & Trophy

3. 700.00 & Trophy

4. 450.00

5. 250.00

Compacts

1. 600.00 & Trophy

2. 350.00 & Trophy

3. 225.00 & Trophy

4. 125.00

5. 75.00

Trucks

1. 1000.00 & Trophy

2. 600.00 & Trophy

3. 350.00 & Trophy

4. 250.00

5. 150.00

Powder Puff

1. 300.00 & Trophy

2. 200.00 & Trophy

3. 100.00 & Trophy

Mini Vans, SUV, Compact trucks

1. 500.00 & Trophy

2. 250.00 & Trophy

3. 100.00 & Trophy

4. 75.00

5. 50.00

[newport131]

2012 RULES AND REGULATIONS
General Rules
***If car does not pass inspection or driver is unwilling to change car to pass inspection - absolutely no refunds!!
1. All rules will be followed, or you will not run!!
2. Any sedan or station wagon can be run. No 1973 or Older Imperials, Imperial sub-frames, ambulances, hearses, limousines, etc…
3. Ages 14 –17 must have a notarized permission slip.
4. The person that signs in as the driver/passenger- must be the driver/passenger for that event!
5. Driver must wear seat belt and helmet, along with eye protection.
6. ALL drivers and crewmembers must attend the drivers meeting.
7. DO NOT hit the driver’s door! Sometimes this happens, but if it looks intentional or carelessness, you will be disqualified. Don’t use your door as a shield; it may cause you to get disqualified.
8. No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle.
9. Any open driver’s door or fire will cause disqualification. If in heat, you may fix it and come back in the consolation.
10. NO sandbagging or holding!!! You will be disqualified!!!
11. You are given 20 seconds for aggressive hits, 1 minute for restarts and 1 minute if you are hung up.
12. No alcohol in the pits, if anyone is caught with alcohol, they will be disqualified, this includes their pit crew.
13. Cars are subject to re-inspection before any prize money is handed out.
14. Any controversies will be taken up at the drivers meeting.
15. Any questions give us a call! If it doesn’t say you can do it, don’t do it. Call 1st!!
16. Judges decisions are FINAL!!!
Car Preparation
1. All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
2. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
3. All decking in station wagons MUST be removed!!!
4. Tires no bigger than 15 inch, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled or Doubled tires OK-we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors OK. Tires may be screwed to rims.
5. Driver must have a fire coat or non-flammable jacket to wear while driving in event.
6. Driver must have safety approved glasses or face shield. Driver needs to have FULL faced helmets.
7. You may run a stock radiator or radi-barrel. Radi-barrel must have some sort of pressure release valve, or you will not run!
Radi-barrels: No welding of radi-barrels to the car at all! May be bolted in 6 spots to core support.
Stock radiator:If you run a stock radiator, you may use 1/4" max thickness material in front or the back of radiator only (has to be mounted to the the core support), The material can be 2" bigger than the radiator on all sides. May be bolted in 6 spots but no welding of material at all.
8. All cars must have working brakes.
9. A-arms, ball joints remain stock.
10. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
11. Original gas tanks must be removed.You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell and it must be properly secured (no ratchet straps or bungees to hold the tank in place) and covered. No gas cans. Plastic gas tanks must be placed in a metal box!! Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat, use to be. If tank is mounted to the cage it must be at least 6" from any part of the car body. Tank must be bolted to sheet metal only!
***12. Gas tank protectors are allowed in sedans only, no wider than 24 inches in center of car, must be at least 1” away from rear sheet metal. This may angle straight back from rear seat bar in center of car and must be 4” off the floor. Gas tank can’t be connected to protector unless gas tank is mounted to top of protector and not to floor. Protector must be free floating- not connected to anything but back bar!
13. Transmission coolers will be allowed, but must be bolted to sheet metal only!
14. Batteries must be moved to passenger floorboard close to transmission. It must be properly secured and covered. Battery must be in a Battery Box, and bolted to sheet metal only!
15. You must have a number In Bright colors on each front door and must have 15”x 15” roof sign with car number on it for judging and recognition of car.
Car building: WELDING:
1. Only the Outside of Doors, may be welded solid with 3 inch wide straps x 3/16 inch thick or smaller fill materials. Top of doors may be rolled over and welded with no added materials. If you decide not to weld, then you are allowed to chain/bolt/wire them shut with UNLIMITED use of chain/bolts/wires.
2. You can weld frame seam from the front of the A-arms forward top side only! You are allowed 16" of additional frame seam welding (full size cars only-not compacts) from 2" behind the firewall/dash mounts forward to back of A-arm per frame rail, this will be measured and crush box seam welds will account for this. The frame seam weld can't be larger then 1/2" wide or it will be cut!! The uni-body is considered the frame on Mopars and Suicide Lincolns, which it means No bolting, or welding the seam. NO FRAME SHAPING OR MANIPULATING OF FRAMES THEY MUST REMAIN STOCK !!!!
3. **For driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, you may also have a bar across your dash (must be 5" min. away from center of firewall), you may connect the dash bar to seat bar across the inside of front doors, You may have a roll loop behind the seat, or attached to seat bar which must be welded to the floor (NOT FRAME) and welded or bolted to the roof – no kickers going to the back or front of the car. Back of cage including roll bar, can only be 10” from back of seat. You will be allowed 2 down bars on the inside on driver’s door going down from the inside cross bar. Also allowed 2 down bars on the inside of the passenger's front door to floor, not to the frame or body mount. Outside or inside of drivers door only, can be reinforced not to exceed 6 inches past each seam. . you may also weld your steering column in. (6" maximum diameter on all cage material, no piece longer than 60 inches in length may be used.) ALL CAGE MATERIAL MUST BE A MINIMUM OF 8" FROM FLOOR. You can not weld any straps from the dashbar to the firewall.
Bumpers:
1. Bumpers are interchangeable. Any Automotive bumper and bumper brackets may be used on any car (Only 1 set of brackets may be used). No homemade bumper brackets. You can weld bumper brackets and towers to the frame. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock towers. You can collapse shocks and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with 1/2 inch bolt or less and it must be done vertically. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding on the bumper skins together (chrome to inner liner of bumper) is allowed. When welding bumpers to the shocks and brackets – do not add any metal. Weld shocks and brackets solid if you wish. Weld them well; we don’t want any bumpers falling off! Bumper height 28" to the top of the bumper. Chrysler “Y” frame cars will be allowed to weld a 5”x9”x ¼” plate on the top or bottom of the “Y” opening. No bumper brackets will be allowed if the plate is used.
2. Bumpers may be welded to end of frame with no added metal, just use the welder. Rear bumper may have 2 straps, 2- chains or 2-wires (4 loops) from trunk deck or tailgate to bumper (not frame). You can only have 1 of the 3 used, NOT all 3! Straps can be up to 3” wide and no more than 5” on the bumper and 5” on the trunk or tailgate. Straps may be up to ¼” thick. You are allowed wire from radiator support to front bumper in 4 locations.
3. Stock appearing bumpers!!! We will allow you to take any bumper apart. Weld any material you would like up to 5 inch max depth material to the inside of the bumper chrome skin, weld the chrome skin back into place. Metal inside of the bumper must fit the contour of the stock outer chrome! No changing angles of skin or u will not run!

[newport131]

HOOD/TRUNKS:
1. **Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in cast of fire. You are allowed 12 extra- 3/8” bolts to bolt your hood skins (NOT TRUNK SKIN) back together. You will be allowed 8 hood bolts; you MUST have at least 4 hood bolts. You may have up to 1” all thread, 2 may be used from the hood down to the frame sleeved with up to 1 ¼” diameter material max. (must go through the front body mounts.) The top 5” of all thread may be welded to radiator support. Chrysler products may run all thread behind radiator support down to top of frame and be welded to top of frame welded with no added material. Rods may pass through frame. All remaining 6 hood bolts must be sheet metal to sheet metal. Hood must be open for inspection. Plates for hood bolts cannot exceed 5"x5"x1/2". Hood bolts can be up to 1 inch in diameter.
2. You can fold hoods or trunk decks over but 60% of the hood or trunk lid must be in factory location. No tucking of wagon roof on Leaf spring wagons. 80’s & newer wagons may tuck roof down with 4 spots (these may not be connected in any way... must remain 4 separate spots) holding the roof down to the car body only—NOT Frame(up to 1" bolt, 3/8" chain or wire)!
3. 2 - 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to frame, MUST go through body mount hole or can be welded to the side of the frame, or you may use wire in 2 spots with 4 loops from trunk lid and may go around the frame with the wire. CAN’T DO BOTH!! Top trunk lid seams may be welded solid, or unlimited bolting with no bigger than 3/8 bolts.Wagon tailgates maybe welded solid outside only with no bigger than 3"x 3/16" strap, or you can have 1 threaded rod no bigger than 1" from taillight opening to taillight opening only.
BODY MOUNTS:
1.Body spacers can be removed and frame can be tight to the body.
2. Body mount bolts can be replaced with 1” bolts, Bolts may extend through body and have up to a 5”x 5” x ¼”thick washer on top. Bolt must be up inside of frame as factory and may have larger washer inside of frame (no longer than 5"). Washers inside frame may not be used as a gusset! If there is factory rubber mount without a body bolt, you can add the bolt to the mount.3. A 3” diameter 1/8” washer can be welded to the top of the frame over any body mount hole.
SUSPENSION:
1. Suspension must be at stock height. Leaf springs must be stock, you may add one spring as long as the main leaf spring (9 leaf maximum), you can't wrap the added leaf spring to make a double main - tow packages OK. The Main leaf spring must be the top spring in the spring pack and leaf springs must stagger down with at least a 2 inch stagger from longest to smallest. You can re-clamp springs, 6 clamps per side homemade or factory. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4 inch. You can put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height. You can bolt or wire coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them from becoming unbolted. You can loop chain or wire from rear end to frame in 2 spots on each side. No bigger than #9 wire or 3/8”chain or cable may be used.
2. Mopars can weld mounting brackets to uni-body where leaf springs are mounted factory to uni-body frame.
3. Rear-end control arms may be reinforced, but must be workable. They may be shortened or made longer as well. (Homemade ok.)
4. Use rear end of choice, must be factory 5 lugs. You can tilt rear end if you wish. Welded or posi-track highly recommended
5. Rear-end Housings may be re-enforced. Hybrid rear-ends are allowed.Rear end brace cannot extend more than 6 inches off the stock housing.
*****6. Front A-arms may be bolted, chained or welded down to get your bumper height. Welding- 2 straps 2” on frame 2” on A-arm
SUSPENSION for 1977 & Newer GM and 80 & Newer Ford cars running with the old iron:
1.You may leaf these types of cars. If you do not convert to leafs, you are allowed a 1/4" thick by 22" long hump plate, this must follow the contour of the hump , centered and welded with one pass of 1/4" weld. This plate must be welded to the outside only, match the factory hump and not span the center of the hump. Do not weld any seams on the rear of the car!
If you leaf an 80's wagon you cannot tuck the roof or run hump plates!
All full-size k-frame MOPARS may run the k-frame tight to the frame and weld them together with no more than three 4"x4"x1/4" plates per side.
2.Same leaf spring rules apply as factory leaf cars.
3.Rear mount 6"x6"x1/4" shackle, welded to or bolted thru the frame
4.Front eyelet mount may be as follows:
In trailing arm bracket, with 3"x3"x1/4" gusset or box welded to the frame 4"x6"x1/4" maximum.
5. Springs may be mounted above or below the axle. No all-thread struts if running shocks. Must be of factory automotive type leaf springs.
ENGINE MOUNTING:
1. Engine mounts may be welded to engine cradle.
2. Use motor and tranny of choice, motor must be in stock location. You may chain or weld motor and tranny to keep in place (don’t strengthen the frame). All cars must use stock engine cradles for the year of the car.
3. You may have a 2-2” strap from the motor head to frame on top side of frame next to A-arm on front side of motor and can be welded with no added metal! You will be allowed 2- 2” straps on the rear of the motor connected from the motor heads to the Frame, but must be on the top side of frame within 3 inches of the back side of A-arms. If this is used to re-enforce frame, straps will be cut!
***4. You may have a transmission protector. Braces along the side & on top side of trans. Brace material can‘t be bigger then 2”X 2”, The braces must be attached to tail housing and bell housing only. Can not be connected to tranny mount, frame or cross member, may not be used to strenghten car just protect trans. must have relief cuts in trans tunnel sheet metal, inspectors judgement.
STEERING:
1. Tie-rods ends must be stock, but the center can be re-enforced, A-arms, ball joints and all other steering/suspension must remain stock.
2. You may alter your steering column to prevent loss of steering. Steering knuckles, homemade steering shafts, etc.
FENDERS:
1. You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may also be bolted together with 12-3/8” bolts or less, Outside sheet metal only. The rear quarter panel is considered part of the rear fender.
MISC:
1. For safety, you are allowed 1 strap in each door window opening straps can be 2” wide – ¼” thick and can be welded 5” on the door & 5” on the roof. Rear window bar can be 2” square tubing with a plate size no larger than 3"x3"x1/4" thick, and must be welded within 5” of window track. You may not use wire if you use straps ** Hardtop cars may have another strap at the door post. You must have 2 bars in windshield from roof to dash for safety reasons must be a minimum of 3" outside of Dist. cap protector.Must be a minimum of 5" of space between front window & rear window bars & roof sign. Nothing from front window bars protruding over hood.
2. You can run shifter through floor and you can have a switch panel. You may also have a hand throttle. If you are running an electric fuel pump – must be hooked up to your ignition switch – so when your car shuts off – it shuts off.
3. You are allowed 2 spots with 4 loops of wire (no cable or chain) in each window opening and may go to the frame. No welding washers around holes on car body. Can not be attached to cage at all.
4. You may run wire from frame rail to frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear-end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain/cable in 1 spot only. This must go around the frame, this cannot be bolted to the frame.
5. You are allowed to bolt, or weld Factory body seams together, Not hood, trunk lid, tailgate, or door seams. The uni-body is considered the frame on Mopars and Suicide Lincolns which it means No bolting, or welding the seam.
6. No painting or undercoating of frames.
7. Dist. Cap Protector is allowed. There must be 12 inches of clearance between the Dist. Cap protector and the dash bar at the start of the event. Dist. Cap protector can't be mounted to body, frame or cage. Dist. Cap Protector CAN NOT touch the cage or front window bars at all, or car will be DQed! Hole has to be cut in the firewall large enough for the Dist. Cap Protector to pass through. This will be enforced before, during and after the event!
8. No re-enforcing steel on tranny tunnel!!
9. We reserve the right to drill a 1/2" hole in frame to scope.
RUST REPAIR & FRAME REPAIR:
1. You may repair rusted out sheet metal with sheet metal only. Leave the rust in place and repair over it. Rusted out frames may be repaired with 3/16 inch or less thick flat plate. You are allowed to weld the patch 1 inch past the rusted out area, leave the rust in place. Must have a 1/2" hole in plate every 3" to see rust if not rusty plate will be removed.
2. Bent frames only may be repaired with 4” X 6”- 3/16” thick flat plate. You are only allowed 4 plates per frame rail front and rear of car. The center door post divides the car in half. The patch may be welded solid, but you must have a 1/2 inch hole in the patch. You can only repair the frame once in each place. No re-patching or layering of patches. Plates must have a 1” space between plates.BEND IN FRAME MUST BE PROVEN OR PLATES WILL BE REMOVED !!!!!!!!!! ANY MORE THAN 4 PLATES PER SIDE THEY WILL BE REMOVED.
COMPACT CLASS: In addition to the above rules-
1. WHEELBASE: maximum of 106 inches for rear wheel drive, and 108 inches for front wheel drive cars.
2. Bumper brackets must be under 10” in length from the backside of the bumper.
3.Interior cage for compacts only! Must have one seat bar from door to door that can be welded or bolted to the body. You can also have one dash bar that can connect to the seat bar in 2 locations. All these bars must be at least 8” above the floor. You will be allowed one down from connecting bar within the drivers door. You will be allowed a halo bar that can be bolted or welded to the floor, not frame. 2-¾” bolts can be used to bolt to the roof. (6" maximum diameter on all cage material, no piece longer than 60 inches in length may be used.) NO GAS TANK PROTECTORS.
4. No bolting or welding of any body seams.
5. Engines must be fastened with separate motor mounts. no engine cradles.
6. No leafing or plating humps.

[newport131]

ADDITIONAL TRUCK RULES 1/2 ton up to 1 ton plus SUBURBANS
1.Any stock truck or automotive car bumper and bumper brackets may be used on the front and rear of the vehicle. Bumpers may be re-enforced on the inside only. If you are reinforcing a factory truck bumper, the bumper must remain flat, car bumper skins must remain factory not changing any angles and must have the outer skin welded in place (meaning you may not change the contour of the bumper). max bumper material depth of 5 inches. Bumpers and bumper brackets may be welded to frame.
From the end of the frame back 8 inches may be re-enforced, nothing bigger that 8" long and as wide as the frame is tall piece may be used. No connecting the frame rails to each other with added materials!! You may also have 2-4" wide by 8" long by 1/4" straps on the front and rear bumpers. Bumper height 30" to the top of the bumper.
2.Tailgate may be welded inside & out with no more than 3" wide by 3/16" thick can be welded solid.
3. If you choose to fold box sides over, it must be done behind rear wheels.
4.You may run a 4x4 but must remove one of the driveshafts.
5. If you choose, you may rebolt or chain the box in 6 spots additional to the stock bolts with up to 1" threaded rod or 3/8" chain.(This can be welded to the frame) Plate size is limited to 6"x 6" x 1/4". May be sleeved with up to 2" diameter material.
6. May tie the box to the cab using 1" threaded rod in four places.Maximum plate size of 6"x6"x1/4". The cab and box may be welded together and you may use a fill material to fill the gap between the cab and box.
7. All factory seams in the box only can be welded with 2”x2”x1/4” angle iron, or 3” strap
8. Any tire is allowed on a rim no bigger than 16.5". No split rims.
9. Any bracing can be used inside the cab of the truck. A 4 point cage is required. The bracing can connect to the frame anywhere within the cab BUT CAN NOT GO PAST THE FIREWALL. Bracing can not go more than 12" behind the driver's seat.
10. A 6" diameter rollover loop will be allowed with 2 kickers (4 point). This loop can be connected to the cab, or cage. The 2 kickers must come from the top of the loop down to a location no further back than the leaf-spring mount. This loop can be bolted to the floor, or welded directly to the frame on the plates no larger than 8"x8".
11. All coolers, or gas tanks must be mounted in front of the front leaf spring mount.
12.No more than 13 leaf springs per stack, no stagger needed.
13. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
14. May tuck roof down in 4 spots (these may not be connected in any way...must remain 4 separate spots) to hold the roof down to the body only, not frame. May use up to 1" bolts, 3/8" chain, or wire.
15. Additional metal between the frame and axle up to 4 inch diameter will be allowed to gain height, must be done vertical and not connecting each side, may be welded in. Bumpers must be under 30” height.
16. 12-3/8, or 6-3/4 bolts can be used on each side of the box to bolt it together with plates not to exceed 5’x5’x 1/4”
17. You can have a 3”x3” angle or square tube across your Radiator support with 2 kickers (3”x3”) attached to the frame in front of the front axle to the top side of the frame only!
18. Any pre 1970 truck frame must be under 7 ½” in height.
19. Bent frames may be repaired with 1/4 inch metal 1 inch past the bend, but only on 1 side of the frame. The patch may be welded solid on the outside, no plug welding, You can only repair the frame once in each place. No re-patching or layering of patches.
Additional Stock Mini Vans, Suv & Compact Trucks
1. No motor mounts modifications. No welding or chaining of motor mounts. Can run 4, 6, or 8 cylinders but must be stock, for the car you are running.
2. May use stock ignition or push button and toggle switch.
3. Must use stock shifter in factory position.
4. Dash bars are optional.
5. No welding of posi-traction.
6. No torching of fenders. Must be totally stock appearing minus the lights, chrome, etc.
7. Tire: Air tires only. Tubes and stem protectors will be allowed. 4 ply stock tire size....snow tires ok.
8. Gas tanks and Battery boxes secured and covered as noted above.
9. Four chains or wire on hood and on trunk, plus hinges. Chains or wire cannot touch in any way but may go around bumper or frame.
10. Bumper rule: May weld bumpers on. Bumpers must be stock for the car you're running...NO EXTRA METAL.
11. Must have a bar behind the seat from driver's side to passenger's side using same size plate as noted above.
12. . You will be allowed a 4” diameter bar with 6”x6” plates on the ends mounted door to door behind the gas tank. This bar cannot be attached to any other interior bars, tank, coolers, or floor.
13. Doors must be chained or wired. 2 chains or wire per seam. Driver's door may be welded solid for driver's safety. Using same material as noted above.
14. If you have a rusted away body mount, you will be allowed one chain loop per mount to reconnect the body to frame.
15. No auxiliary transmission coolers.
16. Must have 2 straps in front window.
17. NO ALL WHEEL DRIVES! In the mini class if you run a 4 wheel drive you must remove one of the drive shafts.

[blatz53]

What kinda turn out you normally have for trucks?

[jrod]

Usually mid teens for truck count.