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Post by 686racing on Feb 17, 2013 9:31:37 GMT -5
dave,
IF a guy was to build a ford 9 inch.. and wants to do it cheaper then buying an aftermarket case, Are there any cases that are better then others? i have read alot of the posts and also done some searching on the web, or is it worth bucking up the cash for the aftermarket case?
thanks for your info
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oldtrx
Feature Winner
Posts: 109
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Post by oldtrx on Feb 18, 2013 0:50:34 GMT -5
The nodular 9" factory cases with the daytona pinion support are the best stock ford. They are pricey and most of the time the best way is just spending a fee bucks more and buying a Yukon.
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Post by crusher71 on Feb 18, 2013 3:17:22 GMT -5
BEING CHEAP JUST MEANS FINISHING OUT OF THE MONEY MORE OFTEN, WHICH REALLY NEGATES THE BEING CHEAP PART, YA THINK? WHEN SAVING A GRAND COSTS YOU 5 GRAND, WHAT HAVE YOU GAINED?
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Post by 686racing on Feb 18, 2013 8:30:49 GMT -5
BEING CHEAP JUST MEANS FINISHING OUT OF THE MONEY MORE OFTEN, WHICH REALLY NEGATES THE BEING CHEAP PART, YA THINK? WHEN SAVING A GRAND COSTS YOU 5 GRAND, WHAT HAVE YOU GAINED? in order to win 5 grand i would have to win 5 or 6 derbies where i run... |
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Post by crusher71 on Feb 19, 2013 2:06:43 GMT -5
AND THATS MY EXACT POINT....... HOW MANY TIMES HAS THE FIRST PLACE FINISHER BEEN ABLE TO WIN BECAUSE THE LESSER BUILT CARS BROKE? WHAT I AM GETTING AT IS THIS- DO NOT PLAY OVER YOUR HEAD WITH BUYING HARDCORE PARTS IF THE REST OF YOUR BUILD DOESNT COMPLIMENT THAT, BUT BY ALL MEANS BUY THE BEST RATHER THAN JUMPING THE GUN AND BUYING A CHEAP SETUP THAT YOU " THINK IS GOOD ENOUGH".. GOOD ENOUGH, NEVER IS.. THERE IS ALWAYS BETTER.....
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Post by drivingbigtoys on Feb 19, 2013 8:48:28 GMT -5
AND THATS MY EXACT POINT....... HOW MANY TIMES HAS THE FIRST PLACE FINISHER BEEN ABLE TO WIN BECAUSE THE LESSER BUILT CARS BROKE? WHAT I AM GETTING AT IS THIS- DO NOT PLAY OVER YOUR HEAD WITH BUYING HARDCORE PARTS IF THE REST OF YOUR BUILD DOESNT COMPLIMENT THAT, BUT BY ALL MEANS BUY THE BEST RATHER THAN JUMPING THE GUN AND BUYING A CHEAP SETUP THAT YOU " THINK IS GOOD ENOUGH".. GOOD ENOUGH, NEVER IS.. THERE IS ALWAYS BETTER..... Crusher is right, but everyone has a spending limit. I upgraded from a bone stock 8.8 to a ford 9" 31 spline, because I thought they were "good enough". Bought 12 axles 3 third members....I lost 2 derbies that I could have won totaling $2500 due to stock parts failing. I had $1500 in all my stock stuff. I upgraded to 35 spline hobby stock and a aftrrmarket case and had 1300 in it... (9" housing I had and steel was free that I braced it with) come back 2012 and won 3 out of 4 .....1 loss was distributor cap...I'd spend the extra $ and upgrade than spend the $ and do it twice. |
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Post by David Bryan on Feb 19, 2013 11:06:40 GMT -5
Hello. All good points about stock vs. after market (better) parts. I know of more than a few drivers who bought 4 or more, GM 31 spline, bolt in axle shafts. They spent money on a full spool for the GM 10 bolt. At 75.00 each shaft, this was $300.00 (or so, depending on prices). Some spent more, some spent less. In 2004, this was a great set up, but not so much now. It IS still a very good set up, depending on how you drive (and rules you must build by). But, from above, if the driver spent another $350.00, a better set up is now available. As Jon pointed out, it does not take to many "4th place to 2nd place" or 6th place to 3rd place" to pay for this set up.
Ford 9" third member case and Daytona support; Yes, you can still find the "good old ones", (late 1950's) but at what price? $400.00? $300.00? For around $220.00 you can have a new case, and for around $90.00 you can have a new Daytona support. In my "o"pinion, the aluminum Daytona support is as good, or better, than the cast iron support. Set up kits, full spools, gear sets are all common parts you will need to buy for either third member. So, again, you are talking about $300.00 to $350.00 dollars more? How long would it take to pay for this?
For example: 6th place pays $100.00, 3rd place pays $400.00. Possibly a trophy? This is just one derby, one example. How many derbies do you drive in one year?, two, four, five? It will add up. Simple math, not that hard to figure.
Shop around.
Shop around. Check prices.
Shop around. Check prices. Ask questions as to what you get for your money. Not all set up kits are complete. Buying parts (bearings) in single units IS more expensive than buying a complete kit. Do the axle shafts come assembled? do they come with lug nuts? Some things to ask.
I hope this helps. David Bryan
Postal Mopar is working on more pictures.
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Post by crusher71 on Feb 20, 2013 2:07:15 GMT -5
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Post by 686racing on Feb 21, 2013 21:20:25 GMT -5
thanks dave....
in my neck of the woods.. 1st and 2nd the only places that get paid.. lol 1st 250-1000 and second 50-750..
I actually don;t have to worry about buying or building no more. i found a setup with mosers, full spool, gears, yukon case for less then i can buy the axles.. local speedshop had it..
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Post by drivingbigtoys on Feb 22, 2013 8:27:24 GMT -5
thanks dave.... in my neck of the woods.. 1st and 2nd the only places that get paid.. lol 1st 250-1000 and second 50-750.. I actually don;t have to worry about buying or building no more. i found a setup with mosers, full spool, gears, yukon case for less then i can buy the axles.. local speedshop had it.. U boughtva complete set up for less than $600? And where do u berby that first place pays $250? |
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Post by postalmopar67s on Feb 22, 2013 11:31:17 GMT -5
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Post by postalmopar67s on Feb 22, 2013 11:37:36 GMT -5
 This is one of the 14 bolts that was under our t birds at Topeka. 14 bolt 40 spline, cups, truss and top brace. |
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Post by drivingbigtoys on Feb 22, 2013 20:26:04 GMT -5
That a stock 9" center on that? How much fpr that setup? |
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Post by postalmopar67s on Feb 23, 2013 0:18:02 GMT -5
Drivingbigtoys,
That is not a stock center, this 9" housing is all new. To start out, the center is 1/4" nearly twice the thickness of a stock center. The front plate, the ring that the bolts are pressed in to hold the third member, is 3/8". The stamped back plate is 3/16". The tubes, the first picture, are 1/2" DOM tube. There is also an internal gusset from the tube to the center. These housings were intended for stock shows where one had to run a "stock" housing with no bracing, but they are very strong and could be ran at any type of show. It would be very difficult for someone to tell the difference between one of these housings and a completely stock housing under a car. We make these housings with Moser deep bore housing ends, or like in the pictures with cups and HD pads. I believe these housings are the strongest, and cleanest looking housings on the market.
A bare housing with deep bore ends is $625.
A housing with cups and HD pads, for lower control arm mounts and leaf spring mounting, is $1020.
Scott
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Post by David Bryan on Feb 23, 2013 10:24:30 GMT -5
Hello. Thank you Scott for posting pictures.
Jon, here are some more pictures. I am pretty sure the pictures are original. I am not sure how to sign for authenticity. Also, no hacks here. We do our own work, always have, always will. Scott (who posted the pictures) uses the term "bad azz" for the 14 bolt assembly. I am not sure I use that term, but they are strong. I doubt there is much better, any where, on the planet.
oldtrx, here are a few pictures to help explain the "flange protector". Simply put, this hub keeps the axle shaft flange from bending on impact. The 2nd picture is of the 1/2" thick wall, DOM, tube and a steel ring (with six holes) welded to the axle tube. Notice the tube exends through the ring. The ring is welded on both sides. Also notice the HD leaf brackets in this picture. These are also welded to the axle tube, and welded to the "ring". Notice the six holes in the ring and the two holes in the leaf brackets. These holes allow the HD hub/protector to bolt on. This hub starts out as 6 1/2" billet steel. This hub also holds the wheel bearing (or bronze bushing). Now notice the 3rd an 4th pictures. This is the HD hub, flange protector bolted on. If you look close, you can see the parting line between the welded ring, and the HD hub. You can also see the common bolts that pass though the leaf bracket, the welded ring, and into the HD hub. In the 3rd picture, by looking in the hub, you see the 1/2" wall tube, the bearing cup, and the four holes drilled and tapped for the retainer plate. And, by looking close, you can see a lip. The axle shaft flange will ride on the outer wall of the hub. The wheel stud heads (5 on 5" pattern only) will ride on this extra lip. So, long story short; when a rear tire receives a hit from another car, the axle shaft flange will ride on this hub. The wheel stud heads will ride on the extra lip. This prevents the flange from bending over, and prevents the flange from breaking. This HD hub allows the use of the Timken 45mm bearing (deep bore Moser), or my bronze bushing. Either way. Made ther same. Most, choose the bronze.
Still to this day, figure 8 race or demolition derby, not one failure of bronze.
Now, if you look at the 7th picture (14 bolt assembly "bad azz"), you can see the axle shafts installed in the housing. You can see how close the axle shaft flange is to the HD hub. You can also see the top brace. This extends out on to the HD hub to the flat area of the hub. You can see this machined flat area in pictures 2, 3, 4, and 5. This is done specifically for a top and bottom brace. Most do not take advantage of this option, but is there if you think you need to. In pictures 3 and 4, you can see the two drilled and tapped holes for bolting on the top and bottom braces. You can see the bolt heads in the picture of the 14 bolt assembly. By bolting on, the hub is removeable, and reusable.
The 2nd, and 5th pictures are of the all new 9" housing. As Scott posted, it is not "stock". It does look stock, and that is what was intended. Yes, there are HD hubs on this housing. A cutomer wanted this option. Most will want the "factory" looking housing ends for the "hobo" or "bone stock" type of derby. In the 5th picture, (as Scott wrote) it is very hard to tell that center section from a"factory stock" center section. Enough for now. David Bryan
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